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On 1/18/2022 at 8:33 AM, mlr said:

The setback was not the only issue 

During road tuning the trans they found that it would hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd because the computer wasn't fast enough to shift at full throttle 

No amount of tickling the pressures or shift points helped

The PD blower is just making to much torque down low and the 3.91 rear is killing it

Tall gears will help with this, so now I'm trying to workout what gears

My bolt in options are: 2.87-3.07-3.46-3.73

I'm looking at the 3.07

3.46 be a good middle ground, surely they could pull a little bit of timing out down low to limit the torque.
You have a decent size trans cooler? trans slipping due to heat when street tuning?

On 18/01/2022 at 3:34 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

3.46 be a good middle ground, surely they could pull a little bit of timing out down low to limit the torque.
You have a decent size trans cooler? trans slipping due to heat when street tuning?

I'm hoping to fix it with gearing to start with, well, a bit anyway, if I can get it to shift thru 1-2-3 and not hit a limiter when it is wheel spinning then all is well

It has a large PWR trans cooler so trans temps should be fine

I do periodical checks on my trans fluid, it is always nice and clean and smells like trans fluid, not that burnt redy brown colour or that burnt chemical smell from cooked trans fluid

 

In other IAT related news: To fit a interchiller on the HTV2300- VX SS combination, and for it to work efficiently, I need to fit thermal spacers, hell, for the HTV2300 to work efficiently even without a interchiller it needs thermal spacers.

Not a big issue, you would think, and not that expensive, BUT, and it's a big but and I cannot lie, after alot more measuring up, the blower is now already slightly touching the underbonnet insulation 

The only way to fit the thermal spacers is to chop out the section under the cowl, see pic

This highlights another issue, I was going to go back to a "stock" bonnet, well.....that ain't happening now

Lessons learnt: don't get a downward discharge blower like mine, if I was going to do it again I would still go a blower, but an upwards discharge like on the LSA or a Magnuson

TL;DR: Dooh, time to get the cutting discs out, chop chop on my loverly new underbonnet insulation and then pinchweld the world.....again979414039_bonnetrelief.thumb.jpg.c7e2ea7ac35a0743a1f1e8a7c14876ca.jpg

LOL

  • Like 3

I too am considering saying goodbye to my lovely heat shielded and freshly painted/un-dented bonnet and get a CF one with a big vent for overheating.

Also, 4.11 rear and T56 Magnum. It's good, I swear 😛

  • Like 1
On 19/01/2022 at 2:05 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I too am considering saying goodbye to my lovely heat shielded and freshly painted/un-dented bonnet and get a CF one with a big vent for overheating.

Also, 4.11 rear and T56 Magnum. It's good, I swear 😛

The blits FRP vented bonnet I had my 33 was pretty good

The vent was just after the radiator 

Bonnet wasn't light though

Like dis...>

post-35240-1246677765_thumb.jpg.42f5aa6851caf8e80ce0d49e5e5410af.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1

To be fair, my cooling issue seems entirely sorted now, at least in any area I would wanna be in. I am yet to try a 45+C day yet...

I do wonder more about it removing engine bay temp re: IAT though, but that will all come after major airbox work, but it is also a bit of a "HEY LOOK AT ME MR POLICE" kind of thing. Ideally I'd love to borrow one to do testing science with before putting the money down tbh.

On 19/01/2022 at 4:52 PM, Kinkstaah said:

 "HEY LOOK AT ME MR POLICE" 

This is why I wanted to go back to the OEM bonnet

Plus there was really no change to coolant or IAT with the reverse cowl when the car is moving

Maybe I just don't take the car to the drags, it goes great everywhere else, it just hates life at half track after sitting in a queue, doing a burnout and then staging

I believe mine starts pulling timing faily hard from 70°c, I was staging at 70°c

So do I drop alot of coin so I can occasionally go drag racing at WSID???? I want to, but....

Maybe I should wait till I've sorted my rear end and see how that goes

Maybe I shouldn't do back to back runs at the drags and let the car cool down and stage at a lower temp

Maybe I should stop treating my street cars like want to be race cars

  • Like 1

Perhaps you need to find a situation specific solution. A fine mist water spray onto the appropriate cooler cores can rob heat away pretty quick. You have it on a manual switch and only turn it on when you're idling in the queue and doing the burnout.

Take it one step further and have a second trigger/switch/whatever that uses the same pump to lob a little water into the intake (pre-blower) to gain a little cooling inside the engine on the run. Nothing like as much as you'd use on a properly set up WMI, but enough to do a little something. Might as well make use of the investment in fitting the reservoir and pump.....

  • Like 1
On 1/19/2022 at 5:20 PM, mlr said:

I believe mine starts pulling timing faily hard from 70°c, I was staging at 70°c

It's not only timing pulling, it is the fact the air temp is 70C which is also a massive problem.

I mean look at MCM's back to back test on dyno same day, 1 minute between runs.

50C IAT = 306kw
33C IAT = 332kw (settled to like 327 or so)

IAT matters.

  • Like 1
On 19/01/2022 at 6:16 PM, GTSBoy said:

Perhaps you need to find a situation specific solution. A fine mist water spray onto the appropriate cooler cores can rob heat away pretty quick. You have it on a manual switch and only turn it on when you're idling in the queue and doing the burnout.

Take it one step further and have a second trigger/switch/whatever that uses the same pump to lob a little water into the intake (pre-blower) to gain a little cooling inside the engine on the run. Nothing like as much as you'd use on a properly set up WMI, but enough to do a little something. Might as well make use of the investment in fitting the reservoir and pump.....

It would need to be done and dusted prior to staging

Dropping any water on the track is a no no

You could also sell your supercharger, and go with an old school FMIC Centrifugal setup. That is what I would do if I ever went boost, which is also something I would never recommend.

You know as well as me that power at low RPM is not an issue with a V8, and people talking 'low torque at low rpm so don't go centrifugal charger' in V8 forums don't know what that even begins to mean.. 

I _GUESS_ it makes more sense with crazy long gears, but in my application having stock power at 3k rpm and more boost from 3k onward is entirely, entirely usable as 3k RPM + 100% throttle = melted tyres even N/A, so adding more torque there is just... ????

On 19/01/2022 at 6:27 PM, Kinkstaah said:

It's not only timing pulling, it is the fact the air temp is 70C which is also a massive problem.

I mean look at MCM's back to back test on dyno same day, 1 minute between runs.

50C IAT = 306kw
33C IAT = 332kw (settled to like 327 or so)

IAT matters.

And the only way for me to do that is:

Fitting spacers, so I need to keep the reverse cowl and chop chop the hood for clearance 

And then install a interchiller 

This is the only way I believe that I may get close to not pulling timing at the strip

And the strip is the only place where I notice it

I can be cruising around the streets at 50°c and if I give it a big hit I don't notice any loss of power, even after a nice long hit which gets me to ludicrous speed, it just keeps pulling and changing gears

On the strip it has just heatsoaked to the point of no return

As a street car I cannot fault it, playing drag racer.....well it's breaking my balls

On 1/19/2022 at 6:39 PM, mlr said:

I can be cruising around the streets at 50°c and if I give it a big hit I don't notice any loss of power, even after a nice long hit which gets me to ludicrous speed, it just keeps pulling and changing gears

This is likely because the IAT is at 50C by the time is even up to temp, so IAT is the lowest normal temp you experience. If you punched it at 30C you'd feel it!

On 19/01/2022 at 6:32 PM, Kinkstaah said:

You could also sell your supercharger, and go with an old school FMIC Centrifugal setup. That is what I would do if I ever went boost, which is also something I would never recommend.

You know as well as me that power at low RPM is not an issue with a V8, and people talking 'low torque at low rpm so don't go centrifugal charger' in V8 forums don't know what that even begins to mean.. 

If I was to do it again I would most likely go turbo, so much easier to pick and chose how much power you want where you want it, add or remove boost, limit boost yadda yadda yadda

Me, in the end the PD is great fun on the street and I love driving it around and giving a hard time as much as I can

On 1/19/2022 at 3:28 PM, mlr said:

It would need to be done and dusted prior to staging

Dropping any water on the track is a no no

Yes, that was the point of the plan. Spray on the coolers in the queue at perhaps at burnout and stop it before staging. Spray INSIDE the intake during the run (or indeed, during the burnout). No water on the track.

  • Like 1

You could add a larger reservoir to the heat exchanger circuit so can add ice when at the track. Where I was working at the time found adding a watertank/reservoir in boot of blown cars helped massively, less expensive than an interchiller kit but lost spare wheel well. Cars could do back to back runs with more consistant IATs.

I fitted an interchiller and 4.9L whipple to a LS at a shop I was at and IATs were never a problem. 

  • Like 1

Apparently the roof of my car was a great spot for a couple of crows to hang out, their hopping and bobbing left a heap of light scratches in the clear on the roof

So, some Meguiars ultimate compound and my Ryobi dual action cordless polisher made light work of it after a good wash, all scratches are removed

Then I spent the next 600 hours polishing off by hand the Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba plus Paste Wax for a wicked deep shine

I usually use liquid wax because it is quick and easy, but I had a day to kill so it got the boss treatment

And yes, walking back to the car and seeing 2 big black crows jumping around on the roof made Mark mad

Stupid nature 🤨 🤣

  • Sad 1
On 19/01/2022 at 6:32 PM, Kinkstaah said:

You could also sell your supercharger, and go with an RB25DET NEO swap and make a reliable 400kW with just head studs and usual bolt ons.

Sounds like a great idea!

  • Like 1
On 24/01/2022 at 8:36 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sounds like a great idea!

Been there done that, got the oil stains to prove it

In other news 

Spacers and a thermal blanket have been ordered, Issue: not enough clearance

So fark it....chop chop time

So, as I have a spare bonnet anyway, which will be receiving some professional love next month, not Mark love with a power tool, I decided to get the grinder with a cutting disc out and on it to make some clearance myself...LOL

Power tools are fun

Lucky OEM bonnets are cheap 

 

30 minutes later.........

20220124_172239.thumb.jpg.343de385b569294d659d4cd77b1a22ed.jpg

I'll grab some pinchweld to tidy up the edges tomorrow 

  • Like 1
On 24/01/2022 at 6:09 PM, mlr said:

Been there done that, got the oil stains to prove it

In other news 

Spacers and a thermal blanket have been ordered, Issue: not enough clearance

So fark it....chop chop time

So, as I have a spare bonnet anyway, which will be receiving some professional love next month, not Mark love with a power tool, I decided to get the grinder with a cutting disc out and on it to make some clearance myself...LOL

Power tools are fun

Lucky OEM bonnets are cheap 

 

30 minutes later.........

20220124_172239.thumb.jpg.343de385b569294d659d4cd77b1a22ed.jpg

I'll grab some pinchweld to tidy up the edges tomorrow 

Funny story

The above added ventilation has increased my IAT by 5°c and my coolant, which typically sits at about 90°c, was at 97°c

After doing some hasty wool tuft testing, it seems kow when at speeds over 40kph the reverse cowl works very well at sucking in air, pressurising the engine compartment, and reducing the efficiency of radiator stack quite well

I assume my trans temps would have raised as well as the air to oil trans coolers efficiency would have been effected as well

So, lucky I have the spare bonnet that will be getting the frame modified to give me some clearance

Marks bad idea #943: Fitting a reverse cowl scoop

 

LOL 🤯

  • Haha 1

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