Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I always thought 6,000rpm was when boost was meant to arrive, not when revs run out?

Full boost (7 psi) arrives just off idle, excellent for a street car with visions of grandeur 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening

 

I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking

 

They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out

 

Insert sad face here.....

In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

 

 

16 hours ago, The Bogan said:

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening

 

I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking

 

They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out

 

Insert sad face here.....

In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

 

 

Check the drain plugs aren't blocked on the lights mark. It might be trapping the air in there.

 

Also, at 150,000km on the clock, time to put it on blocks. That's your half million dollar retirement package in a couple more years :P

  • Haha 1

Dropped a deposit on a 4" in/out Varex muffler 

Do I need a 4", probably not, LOL

Also got the remote delete for a momentary switch coming in the mail

 

Thinking about it after I hit the buy now button, I probably could have used one of the rear windows switches, door

Meh, consumers must consume 🤣

 

 

 

 

 

 

Car had a miss only when nailing it, so I changed the plugs, that didn't fix it, so looked hard at the leads, they "seemed" fine, sooooo, dropped it off to Autotech to see what's up

 

I'm guessing a coil, or lead, or wire, or "something" else all together 

Car was still driving fine cruising on the street or hwy, just not when I mashed the loud pedal

Stupid car..... how am I meant to show the local cars my tail lights.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But you said cruising slow was what you're all about. Now you can do it dropping cylinders and popping and banging. Sounds like an upgrade!

As an aside, LS's are hard to even notice you're running on 7cyl for a month or so. Been there myself 😛

  • Like 1

A lose wire and a dodgy lead was the cause of the misfire, car is back to loving the loud pedal

 

Still waiting for the 4" Varex to turn up, the X Force toggle switch has already arrived, but as yet I'm not certain where it is going to go, somewhere that is easy, quick, but still out of the way, maybe the fuse box cover, maybe in the centre console?????

I also need to work out how to get the wiring from the Varex inside, hopefully there is already a grommet in the boot somewhere handy, otherwise it's a big drill bit and a grommet

 

 

 

  • Like 2
37 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

I don't want to "danger to manifold"

So nope

but but you don't have a 4 cylinder N/A making turbo whooshy noises with a laptop connected to it

  • Haha 1
52 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

This is obvious. Put it where it will get triggered by about 50% throttle!

It is a monetary switch, so push the top or bottom to open or close

hw5404_1.1115_1.thumb.jpg.4c6556cca6edc998365cfbad6dda02a0.jpg

You can get a smart box that works on a phone app to have open 25%, 50%, 75% or fully

 

You can actually get an ODB2 box for a Varex, which will (yes, live) link into to engine parameters to open. So it can be automatically set to fully open at 50%+ throttle or whatever variable or combination of variables you choose.

  • Thanks 1

I've got a ODB2 scanner that monitors IAT, and stuff, a up/down button is simple to work and easy to install

 

 

 

What I really want is a Haltec ecu thing is that monitors/adjusts everything, but, for the car it is overkill and costs way more than this old rooster can justify to purchase, wire in and then retune

 

Maybe if I win lotto 😒

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...