Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys so I have a customer's car in ready for some fab work and something has caught my eye & I believe it's going to cause alot of issues but the customer has been reassured by his engine builder that its fine. But basically they have put a 10mm spacer under 1 engine mount to keep the sump off the steering rack. The mount isn't even sitting flush on the chassis either. Refer to 2nd picture. I will let the pictures do the talking. 

Appreciate any feedback you might have. 

20200520_092348.jpg

20200520_093708.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480426-dry-sump-rb2630-fitment-issues/
Share on other sites

In my opinion the motor needs to come out and the sump needs to be notched around the rack. 

You Can see in this pic here where the issue is and it's already been rubbing. 

What issues do you smart gents foresee happening in this situation?

20200516_125725.jpg

That is pretty ghetto. Considering if you are messing around with a dry sump it is a serious build, not a backyard shit box.

no way would i be ok with that, especially considering it is an AWD car.

Yep it's a serious bit of kit. I wouldn't be happy with it either. 

Think it would eventually crack the sump?  

Diff is obviously gunna be loaded up more on 1 side than the other. Especially when the motor running and twisting under power!

As you can see the engine mount is floating on the chassis already 

4 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Yep it's a serious bit of kit. I wouldn't be happy with it either. 

Think it would eventually crack the sump?  

Diff is obviously gunna be loaded up more on 1 side than the other. Especially when the motor running and twisting under power!

As you can see the engine mount is floating on the chassis already 

Ally fretting on steel cross member is either going to wear it paper thin, or cause fatigue.  Problem in the making.

Also I'd reckon the mounts require a zero set - twisting it (power train) while tightening it all down is only going to introduce stress points under load as you say.

Matt's solution looks the goods.

3 hours ago, R32 TT said:

Had same issue - but did something about it.

 

IMG_6671.thumb.jpg.cf19ad57f934d2ee35422dfc3bbed7a4.jpgIMG_6668.thumb.jpg.08122df54ab340d368e9af19da31cede.jpg

IMG_6691.jpg

IMG_6694.jpg

IMG_6696.jpg

IMG_6697.jpg

Thanks mate! That was exactly what I was thinking needed to happen. Unfortunately the owner is going to run with the spacers as he has been reassured there wont be a problem 

  • Like 1

Wow really?   

I don't think I would like a sump resting on, or chafing on, the subframe like that.   Ironic that you would put a dry sump in for ultimate reliability in oil supply, and then let something like this through.

Edited by R32 TT
  • Like 2
  • Sad 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...