Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change

tommytomatoes
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed.

Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19.

Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19.

Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed.

Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19.

Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19.

Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

Yep, ok got it now! Took me a while 😵‍💫

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE.
IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.

BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT.

This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

  • Thanks 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted

Is there a better way to do this? If people have figured out how to modify the odometer on the cluster module surely it must also be possible to figure out how to recalibrate how it correlates output shaft speed on the transmission to speed/distance.

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE.
IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.

BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT.

This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

Noted and taken on board!

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there a better way to do this? If people have figured out how to modify the odometer on the cluster module surely it must also be possible to figure out how to recalibrate how it correlates output shaft speed on the transmission to speed/distance.

I've been told that the R33 GTR speedo sensor will fit into the Getrag, but you just need to modify the adaptor plug to suit the 34. But in saying this, i've also been told the speedo is still out by 3-5%

Edited by djvoodoo
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, djvoodoo said:

I've been told that the R33 GTR speedo sensor will fit into the Getrag, but you just need to modify the adaptor plug to suit the 34. But in saying this, i've also been told the speedo is still out by 3-5%

I was thinking more about modifying the ROM or circuitry on the gauge cluster instead. 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I'd forgotten that Greg had had a bad time with the Jaycar box - I just presumed that it worked.

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there a better way to do this?

Yes. The answer would be a fairly simple Arduino project. Just need some math to read the frequency of the incoming and generate a new sawtooth wave with the adjusted frequency. Probably wouldn't even have to be that clever to get it done. I imagine that there's lots of example code you could steal, and it wouldn't matter how cludgy or inefficient it was.

  • 3 months later...
Skylineran21 Newbie

Skylineran21

Posted
Posted
On 9/8/2020 at 2:31 PM, tommytomatoes said:

Speedo is now operational. Correct wiring is #19 input and ground out the other wire. I put the ground on the crash bar vertical support to the right of the stereo.

Appreciate the help gtsboy! 

How exactly did you do this? I have a r34 25gt converted to manual. Auto speedometer was working fine. Swapped for a Nismo GTT meter and now speed gauge won’t read. Would you happen to know how I can get the speed gauge to work? 

tommytomatoes Contributor

tommytomatoes

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 1/28/2024 at 12:34 PM, Skylineran21 said:

How exactly did you do this? I have a r34 25gt converted to manual. Auto speedometer was working fine. Swapped for a Nismo GTT meter and now speed gauge won’t read. Would you happen to know how I can get the speed gauge to work? 

The mtx/atx pinouts are different for the connector to the cluster. Also your automatic car has a sensor at the diff to read speed while the manual cluster uses the speed sensor on the manual transmission. I bought the mtx speed sensor connector, plugged in it and ran the wires into the car, grounded one out on the crash bar [any ground is good] and the other I put in pinout # 19. It should now work.

 

Edit: you can find the pinout numbers in the R34 workshop manual on page EL19. If you don't have it, shoot me your email and Ill send the manual to you.

Edited by tommytomatoes
Skylineran21 Newbie

Skylineran21

Posted
Posted
On 1/30/2024 at 2:43 PM, tommytomatoes said:

The mtx/atx pinouts are different for the connector to the cluster. Also your automatic car has a sensor at the diff to read speed while the manual cluster uses the speed sensor on the manual transmission. I bought the mtx speed sensor connector, plugged in it and ran the wires into the car, grounded one out on the crash bar [any ground is good] and the other I put in pinout # 19. It should now work.

 

Edit: you can find the pinout numbers in the R34 workshop manual on page EL19. If you don't have it, shoot me your email and Ill send the manual to you.

Thank you soo much!! I did forget to mention that the car was converted to manual before I purchased it. So I’ll take a look at the diff for that extra sensor just in case. Ahhh I see now.  I’ve looked at the manual and found pin 19!  So to be 100% clear, I wire directly to pin 19 and not just tap into the existing wire?  

tommytomatoes Contributor

tommytomatoes

Posted
  • Author
Posted
47 minutes ago, Skylineran21 said:

Thank you soo much!! I did forget to mention that the car was converted to manual before I purchased it. So I’ll take a look at the diff for that extra sensor just in case. Ahhh I see now.  I’ve looked at the manual and found pin 19!  So to be 100% clear, I wire directly to pin 19 and not just tap into the existing wire?  

Its been 3 years since I did it, cant remember if there was a wire there or not. If there is, snip it from the current harness and run new wire from transmission speed sensor connector to it. Good luck.

Skylineran21 Newbie

Skylineran21

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, tommytomatoes said:

Its been 3 years since I did it, cant remember if there was a wire there or not. If there is, snip it from the current harness and run new wire from transmission speed sensor connector to it. Good luck.

Thank you!!! I’ll keep you updated on the results! 🙏🏼

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • kevboost7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Wow, i wish i found this sooner.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • Chocolate Cheesecake.
      Infiniti Q60 Navigation Update

      By Chocolate Cheesecake. · Posted

      I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
×
×
  • Create New...