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Alright guys searching, has, well been tedious to say the least. The forum is filled with excellent information regarding this subject and I'd like everyone's help consolidating information to make future information hunts a less time consuming endeavor for those in the future. 

I'd like to stack together in a single thread everyone's head fastener choice.

The format of each post I would like to see fall along the lines of 

Motor: (example- rb25 75t)

Head: (example- rb25det-neo)

Fastener: (example- ARP 202-4301)

Reason for fastener choice: 

Power goal: (example- 450hp/335rwkw) 

::BONUS:: 

Dyno sheet image. 

lets try and keep it simple and keep the thread clean.

Data data data we cant build bricks without clay 

 

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481257-rb-head-studs-comparison/
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Another bit of information from ARP's customer service department 

202-4301 is for stock motor rebuilds 

202-4309 is for high horsepower builds

According to the customer service representative I was in contact with anything over factory numbers is considered a high horse power build. 

20 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Challenge accepted, will try over 450kW using ARP2000.

Side note, quoting power is HP is like measuring your penis length starting from your anus.

Well I’m at 580kw on ARP2000’s, nil issues. With a Tomei head gasket. 
@500kw using ARP2000’s and a Cometic head gasket, the head gasket failed. 
when the head was removed the torque of the head studs was checked and I was told they were torqued to spec. 
a mate of mine bought a JHH built motor. Motor was built for 1000hp, they used a Nitto head gasket and ARP 2000 head studs. 
when making the decision on what to use for mine I contacted numerous shops and engine builders. With my target being 600kw. Most recommend ARP2000’s.

One engine builder stated he won’t use 625’s. 

On 03/10/2020 at 11:09 PM, BK said:

Let's keep it simple then as requested:

90% of any RB = ARP2000

Money to burn or mega boost = ARP CA625+

/Close thread

Many different opinions, but BK hit the nail on the head, I’d go even further, for 95% of builds, ARP2000’s would be more then capable. 
Remember, CA625’s are a fairly new product, it wasn’t that long ago 2000’s were the best available and were being used, successfully on 1000+hp  builds. 

  • Like 2

Yep, probably 95% ARP2000 being adequate, and only ever used that until recently. Decided to splash out on the CA625+ when the 6466 went on the 32. For comparison, the RB26 torque specified for 2000s is 110ft/lb and 130ft/lb for the 625s.

  • Like 1

It is but it’s also information a lot of people tend to leave out in these kinds of threads or when making claims and is the reason there a very few people I actually trust when it comes to listening to information And will also give credit where credit is due

there are so many variables with a discussion like this, even something as basic as the head gasket 

4 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Stock, which was probably 99% of the problem lol 

?‍♂️

You didn't really expect a stock head gasket to hold 30ish psi with a 6466 did you ? ? I've still got the stock gasket on the 33 and I'm very nervous running 22psi with that, and if it does let go I won't be surprised.

I suspect that you have not actually "lifted" the head as you've said before, more like blown a big piece out of the gasket. Please show a pic of the gasket when you eventually get to it ?

  • Like 3

I didn’t know what to expect as I didn’t know anyone that had tried it, when it did let go I wasn’t surprised or upset about it. 
 

you’re probably right and why I’ve started saying it’s pushing water rather then lifted the head 

5 hours ago, r32-25t said:

you’re probably right and why I’ve started saying it’s pushing water rather then lifted the head 

How much water is it pushing? When I had the cometic head gasket, it started pressurising the cooling system around 27-28psi through the 68/70, which was just shy of 500kw. It wasn’t that bad though, would basically fill the overflow bottle if I gave it a hard time, but would suck the water back into the radiator when it cooled down. When the head came off you could see where the combustion gases were making their way to the water channels, cylinder 3 was the worst and I think cylinder 5 from memory. 
It did hold together for over a year, and I took it on a couple of 500km in one day drives. 

I’m not sure how exactly how much, was enough that after a run you could see where the water had sprayed out the overflow, I drove it home that night and checked the water the next day and it was under vacuum. 
I have driven it slowly since that night and it’s not making a mess when I drive it like that, I just want to fix it sooner rather then later to prevent any chance of more damage 

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