Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25/30 build using S1 RB30 - tensioner mounting point

GeeDog

By GeeDog,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted

We've been running an RB25/30 R33 track car for 3-4 years, putting out around 300 RWKW. All was good, until it wasn't - a funny noise & a locked engine, and we found part of a rod on the track. The engine was built with stock rods & pistons.

20201004_151431a.jpg.55a8eab5cc8ccb6545392ec5cf9e1e88.jpg

Haven't pulled the motor out yet, and can't even see where the hole is, but it's clearly terminal. We've sourced another RB30 block, but couldn't see until we started stripping it that it doesn't have the flat surface on the front for the relocated tensioner. Apparenty very early RB30's were like this.

A bit of research shows that Platinum Racing Products sell a converter - it looks like a shaped plate that somehow attached to the front of the block to allow the tensioner to be fitted. I can't find anyone who's used one, nor much other info about them. Does anyone here know anything about this? The plate is https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb30-s1-block-converter

Not sure whether to continue with this block, or ditch it and find another one. It does have the turbo oil & water ports on th eexhaut side. The new build will include forged rods & pistons, to try and avoid a repeat problem.

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Would it not be possible to simply put the engine into a milling machine and duplicate the machined surface?

No, this area on the early blocks needs to have material added, not removed:

RB30S1.jpg.b23e78bb14116295d5d134fa50f8d5a4.jpg

8 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Page 7 of this PDF.

I can't see anything on page 7 that helps me - can you expand? To be clear, my problem is mounting the idler/tensioner where the top photo on page 7 shows "RB25 Idler". The pic above shows the same location without the idler. On later blocks this area is filled to the same level as the area on the left hand side of the pic.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Personally I would get a the correct block rather than use the adaptor. You should only use adaptors if you really have to, and considering there are still blocks around, and you haven’t done any work to this one , makes sense to change now. 

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

It'll be fine.  Get a small section milled out of the block and then fit a spacer in that milled section to achieve the desired height for the pulley to mount to. Mine is done this way. Can't remember if I've got photos anywhere....

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Shoota_77 said:

Here we go, not a great photo but hopefully you can get the idea. 

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / JB welded or anything? 

 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Personally I would get a the correct block rather than use the adaptor

Yeah - I'm on the fence at the moment. There is a suggestion that the S1 block is somehow stronger, and I've got it. OTOH it was cheap, and maybe the newer block is the better option. I was hoping to find someone who has used the PRP plate - I can always ask them but will they tell me if it's not a good solution?

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GeeDog said:

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / 

Yes mate, its just an alloy spacer. 

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/19/2020 at 10:44 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

Or even easier

Thanks - lots of options there. I had considered the last option, and decided that if it was that easy everyone would be doing it, so didn't think anymore about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • albyz34gt
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...