Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25/30 build using S1 RB30 - tensioner mounting point

GeeDog

By GeeDog,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted

We've been running an RB25/30 R33 track car for 3-4 years, putting out around 300 RWKW. All was good, until it wasn't - a funny noise & a locked engine, and we found part of a rod on the track. The engine was built with stock rods & pistons.

20201004_151431a.jpg.55a8eab5cc8ccb6545392ec5cf9e1e88.jpg

Haven't pulled the motor out yet, and can't even see where the hole is, but it's clearly terminal. We've sourced another RB30 block, but couldn't see until we started stripping it that it doesn't have the flat surface on the front for the relocated tensioner. Apparenty very early RB30's were like this.

A bit of research shows that Platinum Racing Products sell a converter - it looks like a shaped plate that somehow attached to the front of the block to allow the tensioner to be fitted. I can't find anyone who's used one, nor much other info about them. Does anyone here know anything about this? The plate is https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb30-s1-block-converter

Not sure whether to continue with this block, or ditch it and find another one. It does have the turbo oil & water ports on th eexhaut side. The new build will include forged rods & pistons, to try and avoid a repeat problem.

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Would it not be possible to simply put the engine into a milling machine and duplicate the machined surface?

No, this area on the early blocks needs to have material added, not removed:

RB30S1.jpg.b23e78bb14116295d5d134fa50f8d5a4.jpg

8 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Page 7 of this PDF.

I can't see anything on page 7 that helps me - can you expand? To be clear, my problem is mounting the idler/tensioner where the top photo on page 7 shows "RB25 Idler". The pic above shows the same location without the idler. On later blocks this area is filled to the same level as the area on the left hand side of the pic.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Personally I would get a the correct block rather than use the adaptor. You should only use adaptors if you really have to, and considering there are still blocks around, and you haven’t done any work to this one , makes sense to change now. 

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

It'll be fine.  Get a small section milled out of the block and then fit a spacer in that milled section to achieve the desired height for the pulley to mount to. Mine is done this way. Can't remember if I've got photos anywhere....

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Shoota_77 said:

Here we go, not a great photo but hopefully you can get the idea. 

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / JB welded or anything? 

 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Personally I would get a the correct block rather than use the adaptor

Yeah - I'm on the fence at the moment. There is a suggestion that the S1 block is somehow stronger, and I've got it. OTOH it was cheap, and maybe the newer block is the better option. I was hoping to find someone who has used the PRP plate - I can always ask them but will they tell me if it's not a good solution?

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GeeDog said:

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / 

Yes mate, its just an alloy spacer. 

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/19/2020 at 10:44 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

Or even easier

Thanks - lots of options there. I had considered the last option, and decided that if it was that easy everyone would be doing it, so didn't think anymore about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...