Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We've been running an RB25/30 R33 track car for 3-4 years, putting out around 300 RWKW. All was good, until it wasn't - a funny noise & a locked engine, and we found part of a rod on the track. The engine was built with stock rods & pistons.

20201004_151431a.jpg.55a8eab5cc8ccb6545392ec5cf9e1e88.jpg

Haven't pulled the motor out yet, and can't even see where the hole is, but it's clearly terminal. We've sourced another RB30 block, but couldn't see until we started stripping it that it doesn't have the flat surface on the front for the relocated tensioner. Apparenty very early RB30's were like this.

A bit of research shows that Platinum Racing Products sell a converter - it looks like a shaped plate that somehow attached to the front of the block to allow the tensioner to be fitted. I can't find anyone who's used one, nor much other info about them. Does anyone here know anything about this? The plate is https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb30-s1-block-converter

Not sure whether to continue with this block, or ditch it and find another one. It does have the turbo oil & water ports on th eexhaut side. The new build will include forged rods & pistons, to try and avoid a repeat problem.

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Would it not be possible to simply put the engine into a milling machine and duplicate the machined surface?

No, this area on the early blocks needs to have material added, not removed:

RB30S1.jpg.b23e78bb14116295d5d134fa50f8d5a4.jpg

8 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Page 7 of this PDF.

I can't see anything on page 7 that helps me - can you expand? To be clear, my problem is mounting the idler/tensioner where the top photo on page 7 shows "RB25 Idler". The pic above shows the same location without the idler. On later blocks this area is filled to the same level as the area on the left hand side of the pic.

Personally I would get a the correct block rather than use the adaptor. You should only use adaptors if you really have to, and considering there are still blocks around, and you haven’t done any work to this one , makes sense to change now. 

It'll be fine.  Get a small section milled out of the block and then fit a spacer in that milled section to achieve the desired height for the pulley to mount to. Mine is done this way. Can't remember if I've got photos anywhere....

1 hour ago, Shoota_77 said:

Here we go, not a great photo but hopefully you can get the idea. 

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / JB welded or anything? 

 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Personally I would get a the correct block rather than use the adaptor

Yeah - I'm on the fence at the moment. There is a suggestion that the S1 block is somehow stronger, and I've got it. OTOH it was cheap, and maybe the newer block is the better option. I was hoping to find someone who has used the PRP plate - I can always ask them but will they tell me if it's not a good solution?

3 hours ago, GeeDog said:

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / 

Yes mate, its just an alloy spacer. 

On 10/19/2020 at 10:44 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

Or even easier

Thanks - lots of options there. I had considered the last option, and decided that if it was that easy everyone would be doing it, so didn't think anymore about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Finally got shipping number for the intake and throttle body, shipped by UPS, so "should" be in my hands sometime next week, fingers fracking crossed
    • I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 🤣, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
×
×
  • Create New...