R33 Skyline 400rwhp pushing dipstick out under boost

[Blakeo]

My 33 has been making just over 400rwhp for at least 2-3 years now, unfortunately recently it has started to push out the dip stick. I have tried to leviate the issue but installing a better flowing catch can, rb26 covers with better baffles and it has helped, but my catch can is now filling up with about 3l of oil every 2000km (have to keep topping it up every week with about a litre of oil too). 

Unfortunately I think it's time for a rebuild. Still not sure if I want to sell the Skyline as it is starting to cost me a lot of money and stuff keeps on breaking. I've just put a new gearbox, steering rack, accessories on the motor, rebuilt the front and rear subframes, new coilovers, new diff centre. 

Would I be able to buy some 20 over pistons and just have the block decked and bored out to fix this? Or should I go ahead and put new rods, pistons, oil pump etc in and how much would that cost approximately? 

Local shop wants $15k if I pull the engine out. 

[GTSBoy]

20 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

Would I be able to buy some 20 over pistons and just have the block decked and bored out to fix this?

Yes, because that will fix the cylinder sealing issue.

21 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

Or should I go ahead and put new rods, pistons, oil pump etc in and how much would that cost approximately? 

Yes, and it will cost whatever your parts cost is, plus a few grand. Your parts cost will depend on how baller your parts are.

$15k buys pretty good parts and work for just a bottom end freshen up. But it is impossible to say whether it is good value or not without a complete list of what's included in terms of both parts and labour and machining.

[Blakeo]

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, because that will fix the cylinder sealing issue.

Yes, and it will cost whatever your parts cost is, plus a few grand. Your parts cost will depend on how baller your parts are.

$15k buys pretty good parts and work for just a bottom end freshen up. But it is impossible to say whether it is good value or not without a complete list of what's included in terms of both parts and labour and machining.

At the moment I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, I don't know how much longer it will last. 

I was looking for the cheapest option possible, second hand motors are a waste of time now as generally they would be worn out too. 

I think deck, bore and pistons will be the cheapest? 

[GTSBoy]

3 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

I think deck, bore and pistons will be the cheapest?

Yes, but....make sure that you are prepared for bearings, because you will be exposing at least the rod bearings and when you do and find that they are f**ked, you would be equally f**ked (in the head) to put them back in that way. And if the rod bearings are f**ked, there's better than even money on the mains.

And.....front and and rear main seals, plus a timing belt and a water pump, because you would also be insane to not replace them while access is easy. And look for broken exhaust studs. Plus a full gasket set, etc.

Make sure you have the money required to put it back together ready, instead of sitting in a pile of parts until you scrap the whole lot!

[Murray_Calavera]

9 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

At the moment I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, I don't know how much longer it will last. 

I was looking for the cheapest option possible, second hand motors are a waste of time now as generally they would be worn out too. 

I think deck, bore and pistons will be the cheapest? 

There are still good wrecker motors out there. I would expect that you'd be able to find something decent for around the $2,000 to $3,000 range. If you can do the swap yourself that would be the cheapest option. 

In a perfect world, you could then rebuild your old motor yourself without any pressure to get it sorted urgently. 

[Blakeo]

4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

There are still good wrecker motors out there. I would expect that you'd be able to find something decent for around the $2,000 to $3,000 range. If you can do the swap yourself that would be the cheapest option. 

In a perfect world, you could then rebuild your old motor yourself without any pressure to get it sorted urgently. 

Can't find any NEOs under $4000. 

Machine shop near me will supply and machine the block to suit Ross pistons, deck and new rod/main bearings for $3500. I just have to pull it out and put it back in. 

I'm just concerned I'll need to spend money on the head or something else and it will blow out to a $15k build. But in saying that I wouldn't want to sell the car with the engine in the condition it is.

[Murray_Calavera]

When you said R33 I didn't think you'd be chasing a NEO. 

$3,500 is getting up there as far as machining costs go for a basic build. Have they given you an itemised invoice so you can see where that money is going? 

If your building this thing yourself, a basic refresh won't cost you $15k.

[Blakeo]

18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, but....make sure that you are prepared for bearings, because you will be exposing at least the rod bearings and when you do and find that they are f**ked, you would be equally f**ked (in the head) to put them back in that way. And if the rod bearings are f**ked, there's better than even money on the mains.

And.....front and and rear main seals, plus a timing belt and a water pump, because you would also be insane to not replace them while access is easy. And look for broken exhaust studs. Plus a full gasket set, etc.

Make sure you have the money required to put it back together ready, instead of sitting in a pile of parts until you scrap the whole lot!

Does this sound worth it for $15k AUD in your opinion?

Spool Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods

Ross Forged Pistons 20 thou

Brand New ACL Main/Big End bearings 

Factory RB25 oil pump housing with factory gears + Extended  Grub Screwed Crank Collar 

Block Acid Dipped, Crank crack tested, block bored and honed to suit pistons, deck block, tap all holes and new welsh plugs

Measure and check tolerances of all engine components

Supertec valve springs and retainers 

New valve guides and stem seals

Permaseal MSL-R 87MM headgasket

New front, rear and cam seals

Complete new timing kit w/N1 Water pump.

= $15,000 AUD

(Optional $450 OEM Crank Dampener)

(Optional $350 Fit rear head drain)

(Optional $1100 extended and baffled sump)

 

 

[Murray_Calavera]

If I was going to build something similar to this, I would want to have the oil control issues sorted. Replace the factory oil pump gears with something decent + oil restrictors + extended/baffled sump + breathers from sump to catch can. Unfortunately that build doesn't have any of these issues sorted. 

It's your money but I'd say do it properly and spend the extra $$ or just cheap out and do a cheeky refresh, new bearings, MLS gasket, throw in some head and main studs, whatever machining is required/oversized pistons etc.  

This isn't an exhaustive list but you get the idea. 

[JGTC]

There will be a lot of cars hitting this stage after many good years on higher than stock boost.  Rings/bearings with all new hoses and gaskets would be my vote, a new OEM oil pump will also go a long way, without needing to spend big dollars.

 

Forgive me for asking, what would be the advantages of going new pistons, instead of a new set of OEM rings to suit the existing pistons?  Especially at a manageable power level?

 

[BK]

On 09/02/2021 at 1:11 PM, JGTC said:

Forgive me for asking, what would be the advantages of going new pistons, instead of a new set of OEM rings to suit the existing pistons?  Especially at a manageable power level?

Just throwing a new set of rings in won't change much in the way of blow by if there is excessive cylinder wall wear at 86.0mm pistons. If excessively worn you'd need to go 20 thou over rebore to go to 86.5mm and get a better piston to bore clearance and therefore tighter ring seal.

[JGTC]

Ah ic right yep, thanks,

[christine33]

I have a probelem low compression engine for high boost, but the WHITES 10l oil pan is filling the heads and going on the track or turbo. Like I dont wannt burn up in a ball of ricky bobby. 

 

I have a spool head drain, but I think between the head drain and the catch can am I forcing oil up? I do not know this stare if leaving oil on the track and them being so mad. 10 liter oil pan, 2 lines into the catch can, and it blows out the vent straight onto the turbo under high revs or full boost. Has a Nitto n1 pump, I cannot trust that they put the proper restrictors in there and are those air / oil seperators any good.  2 lines running directly to catch can, I have no idea if any baffiling has been put in and i highly doubt it. Like to fore the oil back to the back of the head, and into the 10l oil pan. Got me kicked of the track one day long ago, and I need to really fix this. Low comp, massive turbo, 2 step, haltech platnem pro, JEM tuined, Adam. The hoses and catch can are roughted like a little kid and macaroni. that is the first stop, and making the drain back to the sump like 25mm as opposed to 10/15 mm 

Its like i answer my own questions.  Spun the clutch centre i hope I havent broken the input shaft. 

 

 

[christine33]

I Havent taken the rocker covers off, but I think i need a baffle kit and take that catch can to the cold side or run another can. Im running like 90 to 110 Oil pressure PSI, that to me is way to much and nitto have replaced the pump once. is there an adjustment for pressure? Those numbers are cold, she is warm, its like 40 -90 at full boost. 

 

[GTSBoy]

Oil control thread stickied at the top of the forum gives the recipe. Rear head drains don't offer enough. You need to add big direct vents hoses from sump (above oil level) to cam covers, to allow the gases to flow up there, while the oil sneaks back down the original holes in the head/block.