Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I've done a lot of reading on here about what people are doing for turbo replacements and 99% of the time people have or are looking at upgrades - exhaust etc. and the discussion seems to revolve around that.

I'm a little old-fashioned and my car is stock and prefer to keep it that way so am looking for a turbo to suit. I want a bolt up solution and I noticed a lot of you lads talk about the CGC high-flow. I just rang them and they said that if I were to do that, the car would require a tune and would not run right without. Is this accurate? Am I to understand that the stock ECU cannot be tuned so this is not a solution as I don't really want to stuff around too much.

Has anybody here done this i.e bolted a CGC high-flow to an otherwise stock car? What were the results? Did it run OK as is?

Any advice or help would be much appreciated.

Thanks all

If your car is stock and you want to keep it stock, would you not just get another stock turbo if your current one has failed? 

If what your saying is you want an upgraded bolt on turbo that is so small it won't need any supporting mods or a tune, you might find G2 highflow is what you're after. See link below - 

https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

2 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If your car is stock and you want to keep it stock, would you not just get another stock turbo if your current one has failed? 

If what your saying is you want an upgraded bolt on turbo that is so small it won't need any supporting mods or a tune, you might find G2 highflow is what you're after. See link below - 

https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

Hi Murray, this looks like the same thing CGC is offering. The issue is because the guts are larger there may be a need for a tune (this is what CGC advised me anyway) which goes to my original question.

Just now, ステージア said:

Hi Murray, this looks like the same thing CGC is offering. The issue is because the guts are larger there may be a need for a tune (this is what CGC advised me anyway) which goes to my original question.

From the Hypergear website. G2 is happy with the stock ECU and stock fuel system. 

G2 high flow is capable of making up to 230rwkws. It is happy to hold factory boost, recommended for Rb20det engines and Rb25dets working with factory ecu and fuel system.

It's GCG. Not CGC.

You could no doubt get Tao (Hypergear) to rebuild you a stock Hitachi turbo with wheels that are not much different in capacity to the original. He would have to have access to plenty of turbines and compressors that are approximately the same as the stockers. It's just that no-one would want to pay the rebuild cost for a turbo that could have been an actual highflow instead. It will cost the same.

A small highflow will work against the stock ECU. But an important point to remember is that any highflow will flow more gas (and therefore air) at the same boost as stock, so will definitely push your operating point in the ECU's fuel and ignition tables further to the right. In RB25 ECUS, this will lead to more richness and less timing, which is not great. Will use more fuel and make less power than it otherwise could.

An actual proper highflow, a better ECU, some injectors and an AFM are sensible modifications.

You won't be able to run a larger turbo on a stagea with a standard ECU. They are very sensitive to changes in airflow, even a mild boost increase on the standard turbo will throw it off.

If you want to be able to return it to stock, best to plug in an ECU like a PowerFC and put the larger turbo on, reasonably easier to return to stock if you want to.

@RBW49N I want it to be as close to stock so I don't need to change anything else.

@GTSBoy&@DuncanAppreciate the sage technical advice

Thanks everyone for you input. So basically if I want to continue on the keeping the car as stock as possible road, I'm gonna need a either a new or decent second-hand stock turbo.

I guess the next question is what's the best source of either of these?

Ta 

1 minute ago, ステージア said:

I guess the next question is what's the best source of either of these?

There are no new ones. These are ceramic turbine, so all the ones that were going to die from natural causes died years ago and were replaced with the spare stock Nissan had, using it all up. Many have been destroyed since by stupidity (turning the boost up too far).

Essentially, any 2nd hand one you can get that was in good working condition will likely be fine used at stock boost for the rest of time. They've had 20+ years to kill off the weak ones.

Yo get one you'll just need to look at the forums for sales, FB groups (shudder), eBay, Gumtree, etc, for people selling them and try to pick one that is healthy. Import wreckers will also have them and might offer some warranty, which may or may not be useful if you don't install it immediately and discover if it is good or is hiding a problem that wasn't visible on inspection.

4 minutes ago, ステージア said:

@RBW49N I want it to be as close to stock so I don't need to change anything else.

@GTSBoy&@DuncanAppreciate the sage technical advice

Thanks everyone for you input. So basically if I want to continue on the keeping the car as stock as possible road, I'm gonna need a either a new or decent second-hand stock turbo.

I guess the next question is what's the best source of either of these?

Ta 

There is a always a few for sale on FB marketplace and they do pop up here from time to time. I have one that needs a rebuild if you want it you can have it just come and get it. Then there would be very little down time

  • Thanks 1

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

3 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

Yes It can be done with the Haltech elite 2500. Full series 2 auto, fuel and ignition control. 

Edited by RBW49N

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...