Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I'm at the point of my build were I'm ready to get the exhaust done and wanting input on down pipe size.

Spec are as follows:

Rb25det series 1

1000cc injectors 

Custom T04 turbo

Front mount intercooler 

Front facing plenum 

Power goal is 400hp to 500hp 

The exhaust will be side exit as it's a r32 race car.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/
Share on other sites

Sidepipes are difficult in large diameters because you lose ground clearance where you cross the chassis rails and sills. You may want to consider smaller twins rather than large single for side pipe. Or major surgery around chassis rails/sills to get the clearance.

Or....sad as it sounds, a rear exhaust is just way more practical...plenty of space and premade options if you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951671
Share on other sites

Right, well that makes it surprisingly hard because larger diameters have much more area/glow.  Say you want 3.5" flow (90mm) in twins, you need 2x 65mm. You do get 35mm more clearance that way but it's definitely not half.

Ride height and side pipes are a problem; you can't have the chassis rails 100mm off the ground and then lose 65 or even 90mm clearance below it; you end up having to run the chassis rails 190mm off the ground (single) or 165mm (twin)....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951676
Share on other sites

If I wanted to pass a 4" exhaust pipe under the chassis rails, I'd just make a flat oval section up, no more than 50mm high, but as wide as it needs to be to add up to more than the equivalent cross sectional area of a 4" pipe. That looks like a 2" pipe split down the centre, with a 5" wide flat spliced in top and bottom, or a ~6"x2" rectangle. Add offset transitions at both ends to 4" pipe, or just at one end and take the rectangular outlet all the way out under the sill.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951679
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, couchboy said:

Bcozican- so you have a 3 inch down pipe?

yeah straight through 3" all the way through

when I first built the car I built it all for response at your desired power level 

i got the smallest PWR flipped for shorter piping intercooler 2.5" inlet outlet they said would take up to 600hp and up till now 2.5" cooler piping as well

still got me 650hps  

but obv could be better flow and now would go a bit bigger etc

 

alot more people know way more than me as above. maybe im not the best tech example, that seems to happen with me, but it somehow just works and still gets there. @Unzipped Compositescan vouch for that ha

Edited by bcozican
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951708
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...