Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can try 303 aerospace protectant that stuff works good on rubbers and plastic.

 

On 29/11/2021 at 8:35 PM, Duncan said:

those seals are available new from nissan

 

On 30/11/2021 at 5:59 AM, joshuaho96 said:

This thread reminded me to order them. LH side is discontinued for R33s, we’ll see if it ever comes back.

 

Do you guys have the part no. For the RH side rubber?

On 30/11/2021 at 1:21 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

Thanks duncan, im looking for R33 rubbers.

Can't seem to find the one that looks like the r32's, the only r33 i can find doesn't look like it goes around the side mirror.

On 11/29/2021 at 5:19 PM, dyl33 said:

You can try 303 aerospace protectant that stuff works good on rubbers and plastic.

 

 

 

Do you guys have the part no. For the RH side rubber?

It's listed on the EPC under "front door panel and fitting", original part number for the RH is 80220-22U00, LH is 80221-22U00. Should bring up the superceding part numbers. The LH is definitely discontinued but might come back under another part number at laughable cost under the Nismo Heritage Parts program, if they made the RH side as recently as last year they might do it for the LH side if they think they can sell out their MOQ. RH is an open question, I have no idea if they're still available but we'll see if my order goes through. To get that one stupid rubber piece you have to buy the entire assembly. In classic Nissan fashion the part was barely painted from the factory so they tend to be extremely rusty when pulled out of the door, so to do the repair "properly" you need to mask off the rubber and get it painted so it doesn't rust again. Looking around you should also expect to spend a lot of time with the door disassembled and adjusting it so the window slides correctly as it seems to be a guide rail for the pillarless windows.

This Minkara blog talks about the production dates on their parts, they mention that the driver side part run seems to be relatively recent (2020?) while the passenger side is much older, more like 2016: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/322508/car/2941721/6237254/note.aspx

On 11/29/2021 at 6:21 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

The R32 has a different design, you only need the door rubber seal 80830-04U10 RH and 80831-04U10 LH instead of buying an entire structural component of the door like the R33. I don't really understand why Nissan didn't make the rubber weatherstripping a separate piece like the R32s even if they wanted to have the glass guide be a separate component in the door.

On 11/30/2021 at 5:28 PM, PLYNX said:

Toluene or Xylene will probably remove it

DON'T get it on anything else

As a general rule I thought hydrocarbons and rubber don't mix? I got a bunch of penetrating oil and other fun stuff on some old hoses as I was taking my engine apart and it was really obvious that it damaged them. I wouldn't risk taking anything like that to rubber I actually wanted to keep.

On 1/12/21 at 3:04 PM, PLYNX said:

You only need to wipe off the white "oxidization" off the surface of the rubber with a dampend cloth

You’re right. It’s been days since I wiped that spot and it’s still as per the “after” photo attached in my original post 😀

  • 1 month later...

AFAIK you can't replace only the rubber seal you need to buy the entire corner piece assembly. LHS is discontinued & RHS is available under a new part # H0220-22U00. Is that you Nissan Scam Program??

I've had great results restoring the rubber using a black vinyl dye product called Forever Black. 

 

spacer.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...