Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can try 303 aerospace protectant that stuff works good on rubbers and plastic.

 

On 29/11/2021 at 8:35 PM, Duncan said:

those seals are available new from nissan

 

On 30/11/2021 at 5:59 AM, joshuaho96 said:

This thread reminded me to order them. LH side is discontinued for R33s, we’ll see if it ever comes back.

 

Do you guys have the part no. For the RH side rubber?

On 30/11/2021 at 1:21 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

Thanks duncan, im looking for R33 rubbers.

Can't seem to find the one that looks like the r32's, the only r33 i can find doesn't look like it goes around the side mirror.

On 11/29/2021 at 5:19 PM, dyl33 said:

You can try 303 aerospace protectant that stuff works good on rubbers and plastic.

 

 

 

Do you guys have the part no. For the RH side rubber?

It's listed on the EPC under "front door panel and fitting", original part number for the RH is 80220-22U00, LH is 80221-22U00. Should bring up the superceding part numbers. The LH is definitely discontinued but might come back under another part number at laughable cost under the Nismo Heritage Parts program, if they made the RH side as recently as last year they might do it for the LH side if they think they can sell out their MOQ. RH is an open question, I have no idea if they're still available but we'll see if my order goes through. To get that one stupid rubber piece you have to buy the entire assembly. In classic Nissan fashion the part was barely painted from the factory so they tend to be extremely rusty when pulled out of the door, so to do the repair "properly" you need to mask off the rubber and get it painted so it doesn't rust again. Looking around you should also expect to spend a lot of time with the door disassembled and adjusting it so the window slides correctly as it seems to be a guide rail for the pillarless windows.

This Minkara blog talks about the production dates on their parts, they mention that the driver side part run seems to be relatively recent (2020?) while the passenger side is much older, more like 2016: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/322508/car/2941721/6237254/note.aspx

On 11/29/2021 at 6:21 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

The R32 has a different design, you only need the door rubber seal 80830-04U10 RH and 80831-04U10 LH instead of buying an entire structural component of the door like the R33. I don't really understand why Nissan didn't make the rubber weatherstripping a separate piece like the R32s even if they wanted to have the glass guide be a separate component in the door.

On 11/30/2021 at 5:28 PM, PLYNX said:

Toluene or Xylene will probably remove it

DON'T get it on anything else

As a general rule I thought hydrocarbons and rubber don't mix? I got a bunch of penetrating oil and other fun stuff on some old hoses as I was taking my engine apart and it was really obvious that it damaged them. I wouldn't risk taking anything like that to rubber I actually wanted to keep.

On 1/12/21 at 3:04 PM, PLYNX said:

You only need to wipe off the white "oxidization" off the surface of the rubber with a dampend cloth

You’re right. It’s been days since I wiped that spot and it’s still as per the “after” photo attached in my original post 😀

  • 1 month later...

AFAIK you can't replace only the rubber seal you need to buy the entire corner piece assembly. LHS is discontinued & RHS is available under a new part # H0220-22U00. Is that you Nissan Scam Program??

I've had great results restoring the rubber using a black vinyl dye product called Forever Black. 

 

spacer.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...