Jump to content
SAU Community

What to powder coat?

sonic99

By sonic99,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 12/3/2021 at 4:25 AM, sonic99 said:

What bits and pieces in the engine bay should I get powder coated based on my photo below? 

 

D8CC200F-E339-409A-B8DB-1EB92FE7E977.jpeg

Usually you only do it to pieces that show corrosion. More important than that is your radiator has no fan shroud which is going to be a problem if you ever get stuck in stop and go traffic.

sonic99 Collaborator

sonic99

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 4/12/21 at 5:49 AM, joshuaho96 said:

More important than that is your radiator has no fan shroud which is going to be a problem if you ever get stuck in stop and go traffic.

Thank you for pointing this out. I’ve seen two different mechanics over the years who failed to mention this 😭

can this be fitted relatively easily? What tools will I need?

Edited by sonic99
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 12/3/2021 at 2:03 PM, Ben C34 said:

No way would you pull the inlet manifold off just to powdercoat it. You do that when the engine is out for work.

Are you planning on taking the car off the road for a month?

If you're incompetent like me and have a day job figure more like two months, pulling the intake manifold is a very involved job and it's likely that a lot of the rubber you touch isn't going to be reusable which adds a lot of waiting time as you order parts. I highly recommend using painter's tape and a sharpie to label every nut and bolt you pull. I also recommend after every major step that you take photos of the engine bay with a phone camera so you know the orientation of everything as it goes back together. The EPC part diagrams are good but no replacement for actually being able to tell what orientation a heater hose needs to be in, nor will it tell you what direction hose clamps should face so they don't grind into your intake manifold when you go to put it back on. I've also been keeping a journal of notes along the way, any little gotchas to look out for so you remember when you put it back together. It's a lot better than say a BMW S63/N63 engine but it's no walk in the park.

  • Thanks 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 12/3/2021 at 1:11 PM, sonic99 said:

Thank you for pointing this out. I’ve seen two different mechanics over the years who failed to mention this 😭

can this be fitted relatively easily? What tools will I need?

Part number is 21475-81T00, you will need some bolts and some foam strips to seal the gaps between the shroud and the radiator as seen here: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/engine/214/21475/

As for the actual installation I'm pretty sure you have to remove the fan from the fan clutch, pull it out of the engine, put the shroud around the fan, then lower the shroud + fan together back down into the engine and bolt the fan and shroud back in. I've never done it but I recall seeing people do it that way. I'm not sure your radiator is stock either, which might be why there's no shroud. Maybe a previous owner replaced the radiator, discovered it wouldn't bolt up/fit anymore and just tossed it.

  • Thanks 1
sonic99 Collaborator

sonic99

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/12/21 at 10:10 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Part number is 21475-81T00, you will need some bolts and some foam strips to seal the gaps between the shroud and the radiator as seen here: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/engine/214/21475/

As for the actual installation I'm pretty sure you have to remove the fan from the fan clutch, pull it out of the engine, put the shroud around the fan, then lower the shroud + fan together back down into the engine and bolt the fan and shroud back in. I've never done it but I recall seeing people do it that way. I'm not sure your radiator is stock either, which might be why there's no shroud. Maybe a previous owner replaced the radiator, discovered it wouldn't bolt up/fit anymore and just tossed it.

Thank you for all that! 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

It's a cosmetic choice so up to your preference, but I get the cam covers, upper timing cover, twin intake pipe and plenum done. Couldn't find any good engine bay pics but they make it come up nice

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...