Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your car has ever been driven in the rain it is all but guaranteed that the highlighted area under the trunk is going to have surface rust. Nissan went super, super cheap on undercoating starting with the R33s and it got even worse in the R34s. You'll notice the undercoated area has no surface rust but the area that is merely painted with what looks like primer or base coat tends to show surface rust easily.

You can arrest the spread of rust in those areas by using a lanolin-based undercoat and it won't matter anymore, the oily grease will stop rust from progressing further. If you really want to go crazy you can do what I did and have the entire car taken apart by an R-chassis specialist so they know what NLA parts to treat like platinum and have the subframes/suspension components powder coated and the entire underside resprayed with urethane undercoat. At that point though we're talking about spending the value of the car itself in restoration.

thank you, all. I feel like I can’t just leave it as it is as I’ve already removed some of the sealer etc.

just to clarify, are the following steps correct and do I reinstate seam sealer at the very end, after I’ve repainted?

1. Rust deoxidiser

2. Septone

3. Primer

4. Paint

Edited by sonic99

I made some progress. Removed most of the tar and a bit more of sealer.

is there an easy way to remove the hose/plastic circled in yellow? I cannot get the wire brush in there as there isn’t much space. I’m trying to avoid having to buy a Dremel. Or is that the only way to get in there?

DF4613B3-40C4-4F60-96FD-F5D5256CCE35.jpeg

You're keen.

It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards

  • Thanks 1
On 1/2/2022 at 2:33 PM, Duncan said:

You're keen.

It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards

I took the rubber grommet of but the cable wouldn’t move. So Dremel will be the only way it seem. What did I get myself into 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are, a good friend of mine bought one to replace his blow factory turbo, running a Toshi Tune reflash. Just use their supplied water/oil lines and you're good to go. At the time, they were like $900 delivered.
    • This is an option for 100% bolt on, the GCG high flow -  https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html Also, I'm pretty sure hypergear does a high flow that is 100% bolt on, it just doesn't make as much power as their bigger high flows.  Even if you get a hypergear turbo that requires you to chance the intake piping, it is a really simple modification. It can be as simple as a piece of silicon hose and you pop a filter on the end. It doesn't have to be some crazy pie cut titanium work of art intake pipe.  If you have the ability to swap the turbo yourself, you would be able to sort the intake piping out. 
    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
×
×
  • Create New...