Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I bought a Nissan Skyline R31 Silo.

Basically I had to swap my motor because it was buggered, ended up buying another rb30 motor which came out of a wrecked VL wagon from Sydney. 

The thing is I am not sure if I can turbo it.. I am not to familiar with A8 blocks and what not.. would not know the difference so if anyone could help me find out if I can turbo it please let me know ill send some photos through, of what I think is the hole for the oil feed 

Any tips in general especially when it comes to what type of turbo and what not to get would be greatly appreciated   

 

You can run an oil feed from the cold side to feed the turbo. Normally -4 (4an) braided hose is the go. If you haven't got a spare 1/8" npt port on the oil filter housing you can buy adapters that give you extra ports.

Something like this-

Screenshot_20220203-180442_Chrome.thumb.jpg.226277ae0ac3b93883aa8c2e6eacd9fb.jpg

 

If there is no oil drain in the side of the block you'll need to weld an AN fitting onto your sump to return from the turbo into. Something like this-

Screenshot_20220203-180727_Google.thumb.jpg.3280c35d2ebc947620d89d9024343409.jpg

  • Thanks 1

Then whats the whole big deal about A8 or whatever its called ? 

i can see now that it can be done maybe they just say that because theres more f**k around to it ? 

as well i was told if its not an A8 that it wont be able to have as much boost is this true? 

im gonna get some photos of my motor in a few minutees just waiting for my phone to turn on 

What difference do you think the block makes?

There is clearly a plug in there you pull out for the oil return. So that's handy . Oil feed is super easy to sort out as per above post.

 

Are you going to turbo a 30yr old wrecker engine? Sounds fun.

  • Sad 1

yeah well i plan on thrashing it a bit first then getting it rebuilt then chucking in a turbo.. but i want to make sure i have the right motor for it 

Im obviously new to cars im asking for questions i know im a noob no need to bust my balls some advice would be greatly appreciated.. so if this motor is fine for me to turbo like you have said since it has a plug.. then sweet unless use have some advice for me that would be apprecaited as well man.. i just want some advice im new to cars 

in genreal any bit of advice i would appreciate im new to cars.. 

for thr 1st question does anyone know if its an A8 ?

i know im a noob lol sorry to bust balls just a lot to take in 

cheers 

You've mentioned A8 a couple of times, what is that about?

You can certainly turbo your engine, you just need to understand the turbo oil and water plumbing, intake and exhaust to suit, ECU, injectors etc. 

Depending on the block it can be harder to do a twin cam conversion because some blocks don't have the machined flat surface for the second tensioner required for that, but it doesn't sound like you were thinking about going that way

On 03/02/2022 at 9:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

And if you turbo an RB30 in front of an old RB30 NA manual gearbox.....the gearbox will not last long. Even at lowish boost. Too much torque for the poor little thing.

It's like catching a 50 pound Murray cod on 10 pound line, the thrill of holding it all together is all part of the enjoyment of the sport! 🤣

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
On 2/3/2022 at 8:04 PM, JohnnyR31Silo said:

in genreal any bit of advice i would appreciate im new to cars.. 

for thr 1st question does anyone know if its an A8 ?

i know im a noob lol sorry to bust balls just a lot to take in 

cheers 

Definitely not an a8 

They were vl turbo only.

Doesn't matter.

So judging by the photos you've got the turbo oil drain point (so don't need extra fitting on the sump apart from if you run a head drain/catch can drain (would recommend both), run your 4an oil feed from oil filter housing, coolant feed is probably there too but need to see more photos of the hot side of the block under the exhaust manifold to confirm.

The trickiest part is the provision for the additional timing belt tensioner probably not being there and potentially being the non machined version (there seems to be a few variations in this area).  Mine was a rough cast block so when I was gettig my block prepped I got my machinist to machine down an area about the size of a 50c coin and then made a spacer the same size to bring the level up to flush with the other mating surfaces on the face of the block.  A bit hard to explain without photos...

Either way, ANY RB30 is useable with a little more or a little less work required depending on the block.

  • Thanks 1
On 2/4/2022 at 8:12 AM, Shoota_77 said:

So judging by the photos you've got the turbo oil drain point (so don't need extra fitting on the sump apart from if you run a head drain/catch can drain (would recommend both), run your 4an oil feed from oil filter housing, coolant feed is probably there too but need to see more photos of the hot side of the block under the exhaust manifold to confirm.

The trickiest part is the provision for the additional timing belt tensioner probably not being there and potentially being the non machined version (there seems to be a few variations in this area).  Mine was a rough cast block so when I was gettig my block prepped I got my machinist to machine down an area about the size of a 50c coin and then made a spacer the same size to bring the level up to flush with the other mating surfaces on the face of the block.  A bit hard to explain without photos...

Either way, ANY RB30 is useable with a little more or a little less work required depending on the block.

As he isn't putting a 25 or 26 head on, so tensioner area is not a  concern in this case.

 

Should really do an LS swap instead!

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...