Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I bought a Nissan Skyline R31 Silo.

Basically I had to swap my motor because it was buggered, ended up buying another rb30 motor which came out of a wrecked VL wagon from Sydney. 

The thing is I am not sure if I can turbo it.. I am not to familiar with A8 blocks and what not.. would not know the difference so if anyone could help me find out if I can turbo it please let me know ill send some photos through, of what I think is the hole for the oil feed 

Any tips in general especially when it comes to what type of turbo and what not to get would be greatly appreciated   

 

You can run an oil feed from the cold side to feed the turbo. Normally -4 (4an) braided hose is the go. If you haven't got a spare 1/8" npt port on the oil filter housing you can buy adapters that give you extra ports.

Something like this-

Screenshot_20220203-180442_Chrome.thumb.jpg.226277ae0ac3b93883aa8c2e6eacd9fb.jpg

 

If there is no oil drain in the side of the block you'll need to weld an AN fitting onto your sump to return from the turbo into. Something like this-

Screenshot_20220203-180727_Google.thumb.jpg.3280c35d2ebc947620d89d9024343409.jpg

  • Thanks 1

Then whats the whole big deal about A8 or whatever its called ? 

i can see now that it can be done maybe they just say that because theres more f**k around to it ? 

as well i was told if its not an A8 that it wont be able to have as much boost is this true? 

im gonna get some photos of my motor in a few minutees just waiting for my phone to turn on 

What difference do you think the block makes?

There is clearly a plug in there you pull out for the oil return. So that's handy . Oil feed is super easy to sort out as per above post.

 

Are you going to turbo a 30yr old wrecker engine? Sounds fun.

  • Sad 1

yeah well i plan on thrashing it a bit first then getting it rebuilt then chucking in a turbo.. but i want to make sure i have the right motor for it 

Im obviously new to cars im asking for questions i know im a noob no need to bust my balls some advice would be greatly appreciated.. so if this motor is fine for me to turbo like you have said since it has a plug.. then sweet unless use have some advice for me that would be apprecaited as well man.. i just want some advice im new to cars 

in genreal any bit of advice i would appreciate im new to cars.. 

for thr 1st question does anyone know if its an A8 ?

i know im a noob lol sorry to bust balls just a lot to take in 

cheers 

You've mentioned A8 a couple of times, what is that about?

You can certainly turbo your engine, you just need to understand the turbo oil and water plumbing, intake and exhaust to suit, ECU, injectors etc. 

Depending on the block it can be harder to do a twin cam conversion because some blocks don't have the machined flat surface for the second tensioner required for that, but it doesn't sound like you were thinking about going that way

On 03/02/2022 at 9:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

And if you turbo an RB30 in front of an old RB30 NA manual gearbox.....the gearbox will not last long. Even at lowish boost. Too much torque for the poor little thing.

It's like catching a 50 pound Murray cod on 10 pound line, the thrill of holding it all together is all part of the enjoyment of the sport! 🤣

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
On 2/3/2022 at 8:04 PM, JohnnyR31Silo said:

in genreal any bit of advice i would appreciate im new to cars.. 

for thr 1st question does anyone know if its an A8 ?

i know im a noob lol sorry to bust balls just a lot to take in 

cheers 

Definitely not an a8 

They were vl turbo only.

Doesn't matter.

So judging by the photos you've got the turbo oil drain point (so don't need extra fitting on the sump apart from if you run a head drain/catch can drain (would recommend both), run your 4an oil feed from oil filter housing, coolant feed is probably there too but need to see more photos of the hot side of the block under the exhaust manifold to confirm.

The trickiest part is the provision for the additional timing belt tensioner probably not being there and potentially being the non machined version (there seems to be a few variations in this area).  Mine was a rough cast block so when I was gettig my block prepped I got my machinist to machine down an area about the size of a 50c coin and then made a spacer the same size to bring the level up to flush with the other mating surfaces on the face of the block.  A bit hard to explain without photos...

Either way, ANY RB30 is useable with a little more or a little less work required depending on the block.

  • Thanks 1
On 2/4/2022 at 8:12 AM, Shoota_77 said:

So judging by the photos you've got the turbo oil drain point (so don't need extra fitting on the sump apart from if you run a head drain/catch can drain (would recommend both), run your 4an oil feed from oil filter housing, coolant feed is probably there too but need to see more photos of the hot side of the block under the exhaust manifold to confirm.

The trickiest part is the provision for the additional timing belt tensioner probably not being there and potentially being the non machined version (there seems to be a few variations in this area).  Mine was a rough cast block so when I was gettig my block prepped I got my machinist to machine down an area about the size of a 50c coin and then made a spacer the same size to bring the level up to flush with the other mating surfaces on the face of the block.  A bit hard to explain without photos...

Either way, ANY RB30 is useable with a little more or a little less work required depending on the block.

As he isn't putting a 25 or 26 head on, so tensioner area is not a  concern in this case.

 

Should really do an LS swap instead!

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...