Jump to content
SAU Community

Xtreme clutch help *advice please* r33 gtst s2


Recommended Posts

I've had an xtreme clutch and lightened flywheel, spigot, release bearing and crank oil seal fitted by my garage locally in my R33 gtst s2

It's had everything put back together, along with braided clutch line to delete the dampener.

It will select 1st, 2nd and 3rd just about BUT won't select 4th or 5th or reverse, the biting point is instant and near the floor. 

Feels like the gear isn't available on the box if you get me, when engine is off it selects all gears smoothly.

The mechanic bled the system with a vacuum first, then in the car with me assisting. Crack nipple, depress clutch, tighten.

Did the same thing for the slave. The peddle feels normal.

The car changed gear fine before the garage did the clutch change, but obviously the clutch started slipping that's why I booked the car in straight away.

The clutch pedal hasn't been adjusted. (not sure if that would help as it's just for height of peddle?) 

Help would be appreciated quickly if possible, as it's on the ramp still :(

If you could p.m me and possibly speak to me that would be great also please. 

Cheers.

Edited by Almera96gtin15
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Almera96gtin15 changed the title to Xtreme clutch help *advice please* r33 gtst s2

OK, either the clutch pedal adjustment is no good, or the release bearing is the wrong height (same as a thread yesterday!).

Since you said it is up on ramps and at mechanic, it should be easy to confirm if the pedal adjustt is the issue. Pressing the pedal should start moving the slave cylinder rod within the top 1/4 of it's travel, and the slave rod should be fully extended by the time the pedal is on the floor. If not, adjust the pedal.

If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal, you need to take the box back off and fit the correct sized release bearing and carrier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your reply mate. 

The release bearing is the on that came in the kit with the xtreme clutch KNI24001-1AX so that should be correct (the mechanic did say that it was a different size though) and the carrier is the original one from the car that was pressed off and the other release bearing pressed onto carrier. 

I'll suggest the pedal adjustment tomorrow to the mechanic, the old clutch friction disc was right down to the rivets (original 81k miles) would a new clutch normally need pedal adjustment? 

Also, when you say "If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal"

All the way with the pedal what mate? 

 

 

 

Edited by Almera96gtin15
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/1/2022 at 8:13 AM, Almera96gtin15 said:

All the way with the pedal what mate?

As he said. Slave rod moving from early in the pedal stroke all the way to the floor. Not just starting to move when the pedal is halfway down (or worse).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 01/04/2022 at 9:43 AM, Almera96gtin15 said:

carrier is the original one from the car

So, what is the original carrier ? 14mm, 16mm, 18mm ?

Have you checked with ACS in Adelaide that the carrier you have is the correct one for your clutch ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stock carrier sleeve is 18mm, as far as I am aware for stock r33 gtst. 

I checked the travel, and the first 1/4 of the clutch pedal starts to move the slave cylinder and carries on moving as the pedal gets to the bottom.

If the carrier is correct for the release bearing that came with the xtreme clutch kit, is there much else it could be? Such as the lightened flywheel and heavy duty clutch echoing the sound through the box. Release bearing could be faulty etc? 

Someone must have fitted this model clutch to their r33 gtst the same as me surely? KNI24001-1AX. 

I'm waiting to see if ACS get back to me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a reply from Acs which were helpful. He says the xtreme bearing is correct for the clutch. 

I was reading a post about someone removing the pin on the clutch pedal rod and the rod came out further, he adjusted the pedal stopper up to where the pin meets the hole and its been good after that. 

Is that OK to do? To check for correct adjustment of the pedal? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's only really 2 places this can go wrong

1. The full pedal movement does not give full slave cylinder rod movement - Pedal adjustment will help here (although I not BK said he has also seen issues with the slave rod being too short in some slave cylinders

2. The pedal moves the slave rod through it's full movement - in this case something is wrong inside the box. Could be the fork is not clipped in properly, wrong height carrier/bearing combo, broken pivot. You can check for broken pivot or fork not clipped in correctly from the outside because it will flop around with the slave cylinder unbolted, otherwise it is box out to check.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you using a Nismo slave? If so go get an OEM one.

The Nismo slave, although more heavy duty and provides lighter pedal feel actually decreases overall travel.

This was what Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary's told me and advised at the time (on my previous shit box) to revert back to OEM when he did my clutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 05/04/2022 at 7:53 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Are you using a Nismo slave? If so go get an OEM one.

The Nismo slave, although more heavy duty and provides lighter pedal feel actually decreases overall travel.

This was what Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary's told me and advised at the time (on my previous shit box) to revert back to OEM when he did my clutch.

I mentioned this in the other thread and this is absolutely the case. The Nismo slave cylinders I will say again, are pure shit. I have used both Nismo pull and push and the travel reduction is quite significant, especially in the push version.

I know the clutch here is a single,  but on a side note Nismo does acknowledge this though and has a comment on their catalogue to never use them on multiplate clutches. Funny that as its usually the singles that require more travel...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. 

Slave cylinder is the stock one. 

Clutch fork is OK and pivot. 

I think it's the release bearing making the noise, everything else seems fine now. Pedal had come up a bit since bedding in a bit. 

I'll ask again if possible please, I read that taking the pin out on the pedal (the shaft moves out further about 1/2 an inch) 

If I let the shaft come out and line the hole up with the pin and move pedal stopper back is this a good idea? Or not. 

By the way I did notice the clutch pedal is slightly lower than brake pedal. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a photo of your clutch pedal, the pedal limit bolt (can't recall the right name) and the clutch rod going into the master.

I feel that the adjustment might be at play here as you're using the factory slave and the correct bearing carrier as supplied by ACS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll take a picture soon, so you can see mate. 

I was only asking because, now the rod has been adjusted out for more throw I don't have any slop in clutch pedal. So when I took the pin out of the fork, the rod moved slightly towards me out of the hole which made me think the pedal stopper has to come back a bit to allow a bit of play? 

Is that right? 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what the gtr manual says about pedal adjustment, even it the heights aren't identical for a 33 GTST the process probably is. Adjust the stopper first for the right height at rest, the adjust the rod to remove free play

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...