Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/05/2022 at 9:51 AM, TurboTapin said:

I order a fair amount of parts from Japan(Amayama) and it takes roughly 2-3 days to arrive in Quebec snail mail. 1 day if you pay extra.  If you're in Australia which is much closer, should take half that. 

As a long time customer, Amayama is pure shit at the moment for Australia. At least a 3-4 month wait if you are ordering multiple parts. Amayama have an office in Australia (Sydney), UAE and Japan and not all parts are stocked in Japan - some are US, some UAE. For Australia they don't specifically order and ship your parts to you from supply point either - they bulk order to Australia warehouse to keep shipping down which is why their supply to us sucks and takes ages. Having a local office here is actually a disadvantage because of this now - called the Sydney office yesterday as I have an order of nearly 4 months getting held up by still awaiting one part !

At least if you order genuine stuff from RHD, Nengun or JP car parts they exclusively source your parts within Japan and send direct to you from Japan.

  • Like 1
On 5/11/2022 at 6:54 PM, BK said:

As a long time customer, Amayama is pure shit at the moment for Australia. At least a 3-4 month wait if you are ordering multiple parts. Amayama have an office in Australia (Sydney), UAE and Japan and not all parts are stocked in Japan - some are US, some UAE. For Australia they don't specifically order and ship your parts to you from supply point either - they bulk order to Australia warehouse to keep shipping down which is why their supply to us sucks and takes ages. Having a local office here is actually a disadvantage because of this now - called the Sydney office yesterday as I have an order of nearly 4 months getting held up by still awaiting one part !

At least if you order genuine stuff from RHD, Nengun or JP car parts they exclusively source your parts within Japan and send direct to you from Japan.

Amayama prices have been completely nuts for a while now. Almost anything if I can help it I order either through a local dealer if the part number is listed in the US parts catalog or from US-based dealers that will import/stock JP-only part numbers on a special order basis. They only use surface mail though so if they don't have something in stock it will be 3-4 months.

On 5/12/2022 at 11:54 AM, BK said:

As a long time customer, Amayama is pure shit at the moment for Australia. At least a 3-4 month wait if you are ordering multiple parts. Amayama have an office in Australia (Sydney), UAE and Japan and not all parts are stocked in Japan - some are US, some UAE. For Australia they don't specifically order and ship your parts to you from supply point either - they bulk order to Australia warehouse to keep shipping down which is why their supply to us sucks and takes ages. Having a local office here is actually a disadvantage because of this now - called the Sydney office yesterday as I have an order of nearly 4 months getting held up by still awaiting one part !

At least if you order genuine stuff from RHD, Nengun or JP car parts they exclusively source your parts within Japan and send direct to you from Japan.

Damn 4 months is ridiculous. and I thought my 10 week wait in february took a long time.

I've noticed the only advantage with using Amayama is with large oversized items which would be costly using international shipping.

 

On 12/05/2022 at 7:54 PM, Nostalgia said:

I've noticed the only advantage with using Amayama is with large oversized items which would be costly using international shipping.

 

That's not even true either. I went to purchase a second set / pair of 32 outer sills which are over a metre long. This was going to be about $1250 -$1300 for them - and shipping with TNT / FedEX on top was going to be over $1400 !

When I got a set through RHDjapan it was about $550 with DHL...

You want fast oem, Ive gone back to these guys in Kyoto this year who I used to use years ago over Amayama - can't beat them for speed on oem parts but RHD is close. Both 100% reliable.

 https://jp-carparts.com/

Interestingly enough Amayama ears must of been burning as my last part is here this arvo and will ship entire order tomorrow from Sydney.

  • Like 1
On 5/12/2022 at 8:37 PM, BK said:

That's not even true either. I went to purchase a second set / pair of 32 outer sills which are over a metre long. This was going to be about $1250 -$1300 for them - and shipping with TNT / FedEX was going to be over $1400 !

When I got a set through RHDjapan it was about $550...

You want fast oem, Ive gone back to these guys in Kyoto this year who I used to use years ago over Amayama - can't beat them for speed on oem parts but RHD is close. Both 100% reliable.

 https://jp-carparts.com/

I suspect it's because you're in NT. local buyers in sydney can just choose pickup.

yeah RHD price is consistent. they offer consolidation free of charge and don't overcharge on shipping.

@BK @TurboTapinWas having similar frustrations with Amayama. I tried to order a while ago, but they quoted me $1500 to ship to Canada, and there was a 3.5 month lead time -_-

@GTSBoy @Dose Pipe Sutututu I fixed up the rubber boot, but still seeing the timing go way back to 5* on warm up. I hooked up my smoke machine again and I see it's still lightly leaking from that area. I may try some heat shielding tape to really seal off that area for now just to see if that makes any different.

Try closing up your IACV a bit, could be now there's too much air being bled back via the IACV and your factory ECU is shaving timing to keep the idle at target.

This is why I love DBW, you piss off the IACV and AAC air leaks.

On 5/13/2022 at 5:01 PM, _scott said:

@BK @TurboTapinWas having similar frustrations with Amayama. I tried to order a while ago, but they quoted me $1500 to ship to Canada, and there was a 3.5 month lead time -_-

@GTSBoy @Dose Pipe Sutututu I fixed up the rubber boot, but still seeing the timing go way back to 5* on warm up. I hooked up my smoke machine again and I see it's still lightly leaking from that area. I may try some heat shielding tape to really seal off that area for now just to see if that makes any different.

If you're in Canada just go to your local Nissan dealer for parts. We're one of the few country's that seems to still be able to order JDM parts through dealer. Cheaper as well as there's no middle man. 

I get small things that are cheap to ship from Amayama when I'm too lazy to drive over to the dealers.

Cheers. 

Edited by TurboTapin
On 14/05/2022 at 8:51 AM, _scott said:

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I assume you mean by adjusting the idle screw?

Correct, try unplug the idle plugs, unplug the TPS and adjust the idle screw till it idles just a tad under the target RPM.

At the same time, you might as well check your base timing and also set your TPS.

(All the above is complete waste of time on an aftermarket ECU as you can offset the lot, except when there's too much air allowed through the IACV).

Yesterday I adjusted my base idle and set my TPS. Im still getting 5* ignition timing on warm up.

A few things I did notice yesterday tho was, when I put my key to On, my IACV starts buzzing. I cleaned it again and also captured a video of what its doing when it gets power. Is this normal for these things to buzz?

 

I also took some logs of my car while idling, I noticed occasionally in the software that all the guages would just end up going to 0 for a few milliseconds, and then return back to normal. Does this mean a short somewhere? Or is it likely that its just a software bug. First time I've ever seen this and I've used datascan quite a bit.

 

 

capture_002.PNG

Ignition timing during engine warm-up is going to be a bit of a mess. The NEO IACV has two parts. One is the solenoid valve which is almost certainly never going to fail. The other is a coolant temperature controlled thermostat that meters more air when coolant temps are low but closes up as the coolant temps go up. This is the part that I'm worried about leaking excess air assuming you don't have any other vacuum leaks. If it doesn't close up properly the idle target will drop because the ECU sees coolant temp has reached a reasonable target but the actual thermostat isn't closing up properly and that's causing it to have to yank the timing out to get there. Maybe with hot enough coolant it finally closes up enough to have sane timing values but still low side of what you should be seeing.

Also, if you see the ECU connection dropping out I would make sure your USB connection is good first and foremost. I've had a lot of issues like that due to a bad USB cable. Also verify the consult port is connected properly and there's no weirdness like loose pins or other damage to the connector. Then maybe check the ECU capacitors?

Edited by joshuaho96
On 5/15/2022 at 10:24 PM, _scott said:

Ahh, didnt think it may be a connection issue with the laptop, but that's probably right. I'll double check the connection next time.

Is there any way to figure out if the coolant thermostat on the iacv is working correctly?

1843510535_ScreenShot2022-05-15at11_12_46PM.thumb.png.fcc332c7a93c53a6fd7a8ccb0287a9f3.png

I don't know why but there is no mention of how to test the cold start valve on the AAC assembly. I would only look closer at the cold start portion if you have normal ignition timing once the car is warmed up but you see less timing when the engine is cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...