Jump to content
SAU Community

Time to add the Q60


Recommended Posts

The Q60s in America are laying down some serious horsepower and it’s time to add it to this group.

Q60 with 300 at the crank with Tune, CBE, Ldp, Intakes, Heat exchanger are 430Whp and nearly 500Wto!!

With E85 pushes up to 500+whp

But with just a boost controller  you can get get big gains too ..

 

It’s time to recognize the Q.. ppl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Q60 Red Sport has 400hp stock and unlike the skylines you can get a tune from anywhere in the work with Ecutek.


The stock exhaust is silence, and it doesn’t make any sound, the turbos are small but in America they are pushing them to 450whp.

 

No the car has electronic steering there is no steering rod.

Everyone around the world had to put aftermarket tires because the run flats are a disaster.

 

If you have a G or a R series but want a reliable car with over 450 hp at the wheels this is the car to buy.

 

Any Q50/60 with stock 300hp can reach 450whp!!!! with CBE, Intakes, Ldp, Heat exchanger & Ecutek tune.

 

YouTube video 600whp 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the US you can get a real steering column with EPAS, it's only RHD countries that are forced into the frankly terrible DAS system, supposedly the starter motor interferes with the steering column in RHD. You can only get a normal steering column with the 2L variants.

Edited by joshuaho96
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey J

 

In most places where Infiniti sells there cars you can get a real steering, but if you buy a used Infiniti  in Australia, it will have electronic steering..

 

if you have a G35-37 and you want nearly 500hp at the wheels it’s really cheap with the Q platform 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I have the VR37 400R its a beast.

The auto box is decent hold power but imo driving it like a manual is crap.

its Auto and just leave it like that.

great car so far and apparently there is a ECUtek tune for 520hp No Mods Injectors at %100 cycle.

Not sure what these engines can handle but im looking at getting a 3inch exhaust and a tune myself stay tuned.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the steering is basically digital its extremely light i have to be honest the Nismo Seats Look awesome wouldnt mind a set of fronts. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...