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R34 GTR check engine light Link ecu

The Skyline Guy
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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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Yeah hard to be certain without having checked the configuration but it sounds exactly like the intake air temperature sensor is unplugged, which is an issue if air is based on a MAP sensor not the air flow meters....I would stay off boost if you don't know how it is set up as it is potentially an engine killer

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djr81 Grand Master

djr81

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Begs the question what intake air temperature are you running? Because for some models atleast (EG RB26 in an R32) it should be replaced with something less antiquated/faster responding.

  • Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) – From factory the GTR is fitted with an IAT sensor to the inlet manifold and this is supported by the G4+ plug-in. However for best results we recommend an alternative IAT sensor to be fitted to the intercooler pipe just prior to the plenum entrance.  This may use the existing IAT wiring or connect to the expansion connector of the ECU.
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The Skyline Guy Apprentice

The Skyline Guy

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On 30/11/2022 at 8:20 AM, djr81 said:

Begs the question what intake air temperature are you running? Because for some models atleast (EG RB26 in an R32) it should be replaced with something less antiquated/faster responding.

  • Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) – From factory the GTR is fitted with an IAT sensor to the inlet manifold and this is supported by the G4+ plug-in. However for best results we recommend an alternative IAT sensor to be fitted to the intercooler pipe just prior to the plenum entrance.  This may use the existing IAT wiring or connect to the expansion connector of the ECU.

I got the oem inlet temp sensor

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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On 12/1/2022 at 4:24 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

I got the oem inlet temp sensor

Yeah you can't run that if you're using speed density. It's the exact same part as the coolant temp sensor and is incredibly slow to react. In the OEM ECU all it's used for is to detect heat soak and enrich the mix as a result.

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The Skyline Guy Apprentice

The Skyline Guy

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On 02/12/2022 at 8:17 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Yeah you can't run that if you're using speed density. It's the exact same part as the coolant temp sensor and is incredibly slow to react. In the OEM ECU all it's used for is to detect heat soak and enrich the mix as a result.

Why do you say that I cant use it when its been fine this whole summer on my new map with link ecu?

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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You can use it, you just shouldn't as Link state and djr81 posted up for you

On 30/11/2022 at 6:20 PM, djr81 said:

Begs the question what intake air temperature are you running? Because for some models atleast (EG RB26 in an R32) it should be replaced with something less antiquated/faster responding.

  • Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) – From factory the GTR is fitted with an IAT sensor to the inlet manifold and this is supported by the G4+ plug-in. However for best results we recommend an alternative IAT sensor to be fitted to the intercooler pipe just prior to the plenum entrance.  This may use the existing IAT wiring or connect to the expansion connector of the ECU.

It is electrically compatible but way too slow to react for proper tuning of quick load changes.

You aren't driving a cheap shitter of a car and an engine rebuild would be a substantial cost. $150 for the correct sensor is good value

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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2 hours ago, The Skyline Guy said:

Why do you say that I cant use it when its been fine this whole summer on my new map with link ecu?

If you want the long explanation, you need a fast-reacting IAT because in alpha-N or speed density you want to be able to know roughly the temperature of the air in the cylinder the instant the intake valve closes. This feeds into the ideal gas law equation which is then used to estimate the air mass in grams in the cylinder. The reason why the stock ECU doesn't need to use a fast-reacting IAT is because air mass is not calculated but measured directly at the MAFs. So it doesn't matter what the IAT is downstream, you already know the air mass directly. This applies to any MAF-based system.

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The Skyline Guy Apprentice

The Skyline Guy

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I have researched a bit and came across a this "FAE 33166" https://www.autodoc.co.no/fae/2495306?gshp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4uCcBhDdARIsAH5jyUkvDlPnJalva3nLNelUOFAsjmuzf8U95mQYbH0MUL_tlMm2kDCc6XkaAmHQEALw_wcB

Will this fit in the original location without modification and is it plug and play or do i have to re-tune the car with this new sensor?

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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1 hour ago, The Skyline Guy said:

I have researched a bit and came across a this "FAE 33166" https://www.autodoc.co.no/fae/2495306?gshp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4uCcBhDdARIsAH5jyUkvDlPnJalva3nLNelUOFAsjmuzf8U95mQYbH0MUL_tlMm2kDCc6XkaAmHQEALw_wcB

Will this fit in the original location without modification and is it plug and play or do i have to re-tune the car with this new sensor?

The thread size is identical but as far as I can tell you will need a harness adapter. Keep in mind part of the reason why people relocate the IAT is that the stock position will heat soak so you will probably want an insulating washer on the IAT at least. Nissan deliberately put the IAT there because the goal of the original sensor was to detect heat soak and enrich the mixture in response.

Also, the "retune" will just be changing the temperature vs voltage calibration table in the tune.

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BK Grand Master

BK

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I use the sensor mentioned on the Haltech Elite, they work well. Golebys and Platinum racing also sell them, but they are just the factory long reach metric M12 thread Hella sensor 6PT 009 109 141 or 041 from BMWs and Landrovers, so they are cheaper to buy from a non performance place. They use a 2 pin EV1 connector like the factory injectors.

In the factory location heat soak doesn't seem to be a problem with the Hella sensor as the sensor body is plastic, unlike the factory metal sensor which yeah as mentioned is no good when using VE tuning.

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The Skyline Guy Apprentice

The Skyline Guy

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Ok, I had no idea I should change out the iat sensor at all... nor did my tuner mention it. So I should go for the Hella sensor https://www.autodoc.co.no/hella/937856 if I use the oem location? is there any adapters from oem to the hella sensor so i dont have to cut any wires? Can I "tune" in the new sensor myself or should I let my tuner do it?

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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2 hours ago, The Skyline Guy said:

Ok, I had no idea I should change out the iat sensor at all... nor did my tuner mention it. So I should go for the Hella sensor https://www.autodoc.co.no/hella/937856 if I use the oem location? is there any adapters from oem to the hella sensor so i dont have to cut any wires? Can I "tune" in the new sensor myself or should I let my tuner do it?

You can definitely make an adapter, I just don't know that anyone has one readily available.

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BK Grand Master

BK

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47 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looks better than OEM with the boot.

Premium.

Yeah I got my own connector with a straight boot on the blue 32 as most of the kits have a 90 boot, which isn't as nice as the wiring might need to be extended in some cases.

On the white 32 it got the GM sensor from Haltech as it comes with the Elite and because the old man is a tight arse, didn't want to buy another sensor he already had. To fit the GM sensor the plenum needed to be retapped to NPT and about 20mm cut off the temp sensor thread boss, as the GM sensor is much shorter and needs to be pushed further into the airstream.

1276670386_20220826_1832172.thumb.jpg.9a3accecafaa3f8d308e84f338974fae.jpg

 

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