Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First of all. Thanks to everyone in this forum helping me out with my wierd questions back and forth.

So before i install everything on my GTR and send it away for a tune i will sum up the parts that ive now bought/on its way and let me know if there is anything else you would recommend me doing that could be important.

Engine:

Garrett GT28-5 x 2

JE-pistons 8.2:1

Eagle H-Beam rods

ACL race main and rod bearings

Oil pump collar installed

Fuel:
Bosch 980cc injectors

Walbro 535/E85 pump (no check valve) I guess i can buy a check valve and connect it to the pump?
 

Other:
AEM X-Serie lambda

New Air tempsensor
Older verision of LINK G4 ECU

(upcoming: Gonna remove old fuel hoses for new ones, change oil pressure sensor, attach oil accumulator, )

I guess a new clutch is what i need aswell. Advices? Been running Competition clutch before on other car. But would rather spend less money on this one.

 

Something else in these cars that i need to upgrade when im gonna run -5s? (Low power as possible with -5s)

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

You want fuel pressure sensor on that list.

Oil cooler?

Head refresh?

Replace every coolant hose.

 

 

 

 

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

But who in there right mind would use genuine ? Good silicone hoses are cheaper and last a lot longer than the factory rubbish.

2 hours ago, BK said:

But who in there right mind would use genuine ? Good silicone hoses are cheaper and last a lot longer than the factory rubbish.

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
29 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

Muricannnnnnsssssssss

bUt iTs hKs gOdZhiLllAAhh door stoppers that somehow look very similar to eBay turbos.

21 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

You want fuel pressure sensor on that list.

Oil cooler?

Head refresh?

Replace every coolant hose.

 

 

 

 

I have a oil cooler, could install that one.

Fuel pressure sensor, good one. Forgot aobut that!

Head refresh? The engine block/head has been in for service. So the head should be fine!

15 hours ago, BK said:

Want my R33 GTR intercooler turbo to plenum hoses / piping ? It's like brand new but I'm still going to throw it in the bin 😊

Im located in europe, guess you are located a bit far away :(

Thanks!!

Edited by reallyspeedly
20 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

Well, idk if that matters after all these parts i had to buy to get that car running. Would probably be better to sell -5s ( with a bit loss ) and go smaller turbos and less power hihi

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Well, idk if that matters after all these parts i had to buy to get that car running. Would probably be better to sell -5s ( with a bit loss ) and go smaller turbos and less power hihi

Depends on how you want to do it, you could either keep a running tally of the things you need to replace as you dig through it or just replace everything wholesale. I ended up doing the latter when I pulled apart my intake manifold and oil cooler/oil filter housing down to the hose clamps which were all replaced with factory constant tension spring clamps. I spent probably 100 USD alone on those stupid spring clamps.

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

The skyline is located a few hours away from me.
Is there any fitting for the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail? Or do i have to make another solution for that?

There is no factory provision for a fuel pressure sensor, you could put one after the fuel filter but before the rail though. That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors. I'm pretty sure that's the point that you're supposed to use when following factory service manual procedures for testing fuel pressure anyways.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors.

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P.

P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P.

P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum. 

17 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P.

P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

 

17 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum. 

Hmm okey.  But what's your reason to use pressure sensor? I've only used a pressure gauge on the line/with aftermarket regulator on my other cars before. Are your reason to use a sensor to be able to connect it to the ecu, or to be able to have a gauge in the flightdeck/cockpit?

I guess i could get an "T" adapter with a 1/8" fitting for pressure sensor placement. And connect the fuel hose on the other two ends and place it between fuel filter and rail?


If i go for a regulator instead, i could just remove the "oem" regulator and put the new regulator on the strut tower on the feed line between filter and rail. I guess i could just use the gauge on that regulator? Wouldnt need the sensor for pressure reading then?

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

 

Hmm okey.  But what's your reason to use pressure sensor? I've only used a pressure gauge on the line/with aftermarket regulator on my other cars before. Are your reason to use a sensor to be able to connect it to the ecu, or to be able to have a gauge in the flightdeck/cockpit?

I guess i could get an "T" adapter with a 1/8" fitting for pressure sensor placement. And connect the fuel hose on the other two ends and place it between fuel filter and rail?


If i go for a regulator instead, i could just remove the "oem" regulator and put the new regulator on the strut tower on the feed line between filter and rail. I guess i could just use the gauge on that regulator? Wouldnt need the sensor for pressure reading then?

I would run a fuel pressure sensor if I’m already doing the work to set up a flex fuel sensor because it provides a clearer signal of fuel pump failure.

  • Like 1
On 1/25/2023 at 7:29 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I would run a fuel pressure sensor if I’m already doing the work to set up a flex fuel sensor because it provides a clearer signal of fuel pump failure.

And more importantly, you wire it to the ecu and use it for protection and logging.

It's 2023. Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are basically obsolete.

  • Like 4
17 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

And more importantly, you wire it to the ecu and use it for protection and logging.

It's 2023. Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are basically obsolete.

Right, that was what I was trying to say but didn't quite make explicit. RBs are expensive to blow up for dumb reasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...