Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good afternoon,

I've got a leak out of one of the half-shafts and need to replace the seal.

I've searched for a guide/another thread, nut can't seem to find one (happy to be corrected)

What is the method for removing/reinstalling the half shaft after replacing the seal.

 

Cheers

received_918381569340257.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484428-removing-half-shaft-from-diff-r33/
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Pattey21 said:

Good afternoon,

I've got a leak out of one of the half-shafts and need to replace the seal.

I've searched for a guide/another thread, nut can't seem to find one (happy to be corrected)

What is the method for removing/reinstalling the half shaft after replacing the seal.

 

Cheers

received_918381569340257.jpeg

When I had to do this for the front diff I removed the diff cover and spun the diff until I could see the axle inside the diff. Then I used a plastic pry tool with a simple flat edge that gradually widens to full width and a hammer. Jam the pry tool in and use a hammer until the axle pops out. As far as I can tell it did not mar or bend any other parts of the diff this way. My least favorite thing is scraping/prying something out with metal on metal so this was a foolproof technique for me and the car needed a diff oil change pretty badly anyways. Then I used a slide hammer with an expanding jaw puller to remove the seal itself. Be careful when you do this because it will suck to damage the seat of the seal. I expanded it into the rubber to keep it from marring the seat instead of trying to catch the back edge where it meets the seat.

Another method I've seen since doing that job was a tool that hooks onto the outside of the axle and makes it possible to slide hammer the axle out instead of trying to use a pry bar.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So i refilled it and layed it on its side for a day (new seal side down) no leak, went for a drive today and its weeping. Is it possible to be weeping from the half shaft seal, do the take time to bed in?

The seal cam pre-greased in the centre and i lubricated the shaft prior to install.

7 hours ago, Pattey21 said:

I didn't inspect it thoroughly but my impression when cleaning it prior to lubrication, was the it was "serviceable" but my focus was more on the seal itself.

Not 100% across this half shaft in particular as I haven't removed one, but it will be pretty much the same as others...

 

The surface the seal rests on on the half shaft itself can also wear. If it starts to wear down, it's not going to mate and seal properly. 

When doing the seal, you need to be checking the inner and outer surfaces it mates to, are in good condition too.

 

Is the oil weep 100% coming from the half shaft seal location?

Have you checked the breathers/vents aren't blocked?

Blocked vents will bust an axle seal/make them weep. This could be why it only showed after a drive, as it needed to heat up and pressurise first (diff unable to breath)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hectic few weeks at work.

I made sure to clear/check the diff vent but I will check the breather hose.

My guess for it being the half shaft seal location is based on filling it prior and lying it on the damaged side overnight and it did not weep.

ill have another look underneath/ check the breather hose

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy yeah but the MAIN problem is that "you" guys may know that but i/my mechanic did not. I literally spend hours to find differences between Stagea and Skyline engine (even here) and found kinda "nothing" Yeah one guy mentioned that the block is larger/wider but nothing about the oil pan. Of course AWD has different one but "everybody" says...yeah just slap RWD pan... and the parts number for my N/A engine and NEO DET were the same so iam using one from my old engine. And of course being in EU/Czech many of the sites did not even show(i need VPN to be here)... @MBS206NO it is not my channel and not my video. Dont even know the guy. I just post this as a reference cuz i have the same problem. As i said you guys in AU/NZD may know this but here it is kinda a new info cuz IF someone doing this swap they already have oil pan or they make custom one.  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Yeah it is AWD RB25DET NEO Yeah as you mentioned the pick up is in a different place ...but i do not drift or track the car. It is and will be strictly street and just "casual" weekend cruiser. With that "custom" pan as shown in the video...could there be some problems?  For others. Iam sorry if that topic "looks" like i want to show/boost some YT channel or numbers. Iam quite the opposite.  I would rather drive my car thru sewers than get the attention that this car gets here. I do not have any YT channel nor IG/Twitter or TikTok. I just want some info from time to time cuz here...there is none :-) 
    • +2 Mine came with a bonus flat battery. 
    • Ha! 'Sif tailgaters work on logic or good sense.
    • +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
×
×
  • Create New...