Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, watched some of my over-funded Youtubers doing their own alignments with all sorts of crazy equipment and corner scales. Was cool but shit loads of work, I'm happy with somebody else doing it so long as I can get there without eating my own tyres.

That said, I do have a garage and once I clear some space from moving in (we've been here 3 years this week) I'll have the car in there on a level ground and may even invest in some quick jacks.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

I was thinking about a hoist, the ceiling is very high, but half the garage has a half-height loft for storage and I dont think I'll even be able to jack the X5 up under it as it almost hits me in my 6'5" elevated head when i walk in there.

And, yeah nah, maybe if I can convince Bec to let me get another car she'd be open to having as many as we can fit (cough @Duncan) but until that time you better steer clear! 🤣

  • 3 weeks later...

Some small fixes made over the weekend.

I've been trying to get the car sitting right on the 275's as well as reducing the rubbing as much as possible. I bought a guard roller but the lip within the guard is obviously made of high tensile steel because it took so much work and heat to get the smallest of movements that I totally flared my rear arches. It looks kinda cool.  

I also got inside the arches with a dremel to cut down the bumper and the bumper mounts. The first one (pictured) got a bit ugly but the next one was much nicer as I just cut slots and hammered them upwards. I gave it all a spray of primer too.

I'm still scrubbing a little bit on passenger side but it has less camber than the drivers, so once that is sorted it *should* be ok.

I drop a single corner down on the ramp to simulate that mismatch and see where it is scrubbing.

PXL_20241007_052914032.jpg PXL_20241007_052906527.jpg PXL_20241007_052210506.jpg PXL_20241007_052202113.jpg  

 

Here's my flares. The car is lower than this now. Excuse the bush fire ash on the car. 

image.jpeg

 

I also haven't had windscreen washer jets for weeks so thought I'd tackle that. It looks like a leak is coming from under the headlight.

image.jpeg

Just in there. See it? 

image.jpeg

This would have been clearer and easier if I'd taken the front bar off, but basically the plastic hose connector has broken off the headlight sprayer. And because I couldn't be arsed taking the bar off and fixing what is already a gimmick, I just disconnected the feed hose and with some aquarium hose, circlamps and a drive shaft bolt I fixed it good. The hex piece I tried first did not seal too well (2nd pic) - not sure why I thought it would! 🤦‍♂️.

image.jpeg image.jpeg

Because I hate things being broken, I will fix this, but until I could be bothered to take my bar off, this will suffice.

Note the BMW push-in hose connector. Because standardised fittings are too passé.

I now have an issue with my adaptive headlights always pointing too low and sometimes shaking back and forth when I'm driving. I'm keen to have these working properly.

On another note, I bought a set of EBC BlueStuff for the front. I looked at so many reviews; DBA Xtreme (not enough reviews), Ferodo DS2500 (Super expensive and hard to find), Hawk HP+ (hard to find, not many track/street combo reviews) and some others. Was able to get the Blues pretty cheap (~$250 delivered).

Also there's a motorsport joint in Hornsby that will supply and install a RacingDiffs LSD conversion for $850 which is pretty good. I know its not a proper LSD but I'm just not keen right now to spend $3500+ on a proper one. I figure I'll give this a go and see what its like, if nothing breaks I can sell the diff with this in and upgrade later if I want. There are some streets near me I cannot get up in the wet at all and just spin a lot in the dry, it would be nice to have traction on these. (I live on a big hill).

My first ever skid pan is coming up on the 8th of Nov. Can't believe I've never done one. Really looking forward to it.

22 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Never mind the ash - the massive witness mark on the leading edge of the rear arch make little baby jesus cry.

I know. It was there when I bought it, I don't know if I hate the scrape or the totally wrong coloured "touch up" paint more.

I do plan to fix that when I can build up enough confidence 🤣

It's just drift damage haha.

On 09/10/2024 at 10:56 AM, PranK said:

I bought a guard roller but the lip within the guard is obviously made of high tensile steel because it took so much work and heat to get the smallest of movements that I totally flared my rear arches

Haha yeah, the guards on my R32 were easy to roll. 1980s Japanese steel woo

  • 3 months later...

Ok, so I got myself some X1 wheels really cheap to try out, they're a bit different and I like them but they're really narrow (18x8) they are available in staggered 18x8/9 also but really hard to find. 

I kinda dig them, but not as much as the F10 19's I usually run, so these go into the wheel pile. :D 

PXL_20240908_043651782.MP.jpg PXL_20241116_021720327.jpg

 

 

As I mentioned in another thread, I got a new exhaust. It's an off-the-shelf stainless one that fits OH-KAY. I don't love the tips size and how far they come out the back, I think I might cut the tips off and replace with some smaller (~3") ones that don't extend as far. It sounds really good though, I'm not sure if its just in my head but the car feels a little quicker, more responsive. 

 PXL_20250105_073246351.MP.jpg PXL_20241101_004918056.jpg 

I fitted an eBay special front lip. Surprisingly it fit perfectly and all holes lined up. Its a little rickety but I haven't put any double sided tape on yet, I want to clean the front bar up where it has scraped the road a lot and fil in the number plate holes (or, get body coloured wrap to cover them - is this a thing? 

I'm not sure if I'll leave it gloss or pain it matte. I really like it though, I don't particularly like the front bar without it, I don't really like the M-Sport and to get anything else is just too expensive. That said, I might need a new one now anyway as I dropped the car onto the jack after forgetting to put ramps under the front wheels. It bent a lot and while it did go back to normal after I got the car off the jack, I do fear I have not done it any favours.

 PXL_20250105_072901993.jpg PXL_20250105_072914971.MP.jpg

Lastly, my headlights died. Different problems in each. They have gotten much dimmer over the past year or so, I put new (uber expensive) OSRAM bulbs in them but to no avail. One of them pointed at the ground and the other just kinda did its own thing with light working sometimes.

Yeah, check this 18 year old BMW headlight wire. I reckon I know why they were stuffed.

     PXL_20250118_045810458.jpg PXL_20250118_045435070.jpg PXL_20250118_045703380.jpg PXL_20250118_045421512.jpg PXL_20250118_045412995.jpg PXL_20250118_045847196.jpg

BTW, the yellow and black is the power to the Xenons. Yikes.

I hunted around an researched my options here. I would have loved to just get a replacement harness but not a thing. My car has adaptive headlights, that is they rotate left and right with the steering wheel. Good condition used adaptive xenons were over $700 each, non adaptive were around $400 each, but I couldn't help but think that they're all around 18 years old now, surely they'd have the same problems. So I looked at newer LCI headlights but they were even more expensive and I couldn't confirm that they'd be plug and play with lots of people having lots of opinions so not worth the risk. 

I ended up getting brand new Chinese headlights from MARS. They're very close to OEM with only the angel eyes being a bit different. I didnt want crazy turn signals or sharp DRL's or anything. Not my bag. 

They're not adaptive, I thought thats a feature I wouldn't really miss. So I coded that out. 

The lights are awesome, they look so nice and they take so many years off the car. The angel eyes look great and the headlight brightness is ridiculous. I was so used to the old ones, I didn't realise just how bad they were. The new ones use the OEM bulbs, Xenon ballast and leveller motor which I was happier with. The only issue with them is that the rear cover is held on by SEVEN screws. This will be a nightmare to get to and open when I need to change bulbs.

 PXL_20250122_080712860.MP.jpg PXL_20250122_081047069.jpg

  • Like 1

f**kin' yikes! That insulation is the shittest stuff I have ever seen.

You need to do an insurance job on that f**ker, pronto.

WRT to the washer cover, I would have said that there'd have to be some at a wrecker, then remembered that it's a BMW, and reasoned that every single wrecked one would have been tailgating and so the front end would be trashed.

48 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

f**kin' yikes! That insulation is the shittest stuff I have ever seen.

Yeah its bad eh.

48 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You need to do an insurance job on that f**ker, pronto.

Ey! Watch your mouth.

48 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

WRT to the washer cover, I would have said that there'd have to be some at a wrecker, then remembered that it's a BMW, and reasoned that every single wrecked one would have been tailgating and so the front end would be trashed.

Yep, spot on. The rear's are always gone too though from brake checking.

I had them perilously close to a tree that we had taken down. I think the tree peeps may have taken it. Either for a trophy, or accidentally.

 

If that's the wiring from the factory, I'd be inspecting the loom everywhere.

 

Any signs of that anywhere else, and seriously, I'd get rid of the car ASAP before the electrical gremlins make it worthless, or it goes up in flames on its own.

That is scary how that insulation is failing!

  • Like 1

Its only inside the headlights, all other wiring I've seen has been fine (and I've seen a lot). I (and others online) are just speculating its due to the thousands of heat cycles inside the headlights. Not making excuses though, its crap.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, PranK said:

Its only inside the headlights, all other wiring I've seen has been fine (and I've seen a lot). I (and others online) are just speculating its due to the thousands of heat cycles inside the headlights. Not making excuses though, its crap.

The german cars I've worked on seem to have that issue(in more than just headlights). Mostly where hot, but also just the insulation hardening and cracking in various places. Not abnormal from what ive seen.

I noticed that I could see creatures on the moon when I turned my new headlights on. I thought I should check the alignment.

It's pretty rudimentary but I just grabbed some dry wall and put it against my tablet and made sure the beam was below the height on the headlights. Ie the beam is at 600mm on my car, I just made it lower than that 7.5m away. 

Not the best but it'll do until I can do it properly at the local shops. 

 

PXL_20250126_093314951.jpg

PXL_20250126_093321425.MP.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...