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R32 GTR Trans install

Jjtxaz24
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Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Duncan said:

Good of them to confirm. 

I've never had to do it so don't know the procedure, but you can also measure the height to ensure you have the right carrier and bearing size

That was my next step. I asked if they had a particular height I needed to have In order to instal it. The one I have is 18 mm and the one that was fitted on the car before is 15mm. I had to replace the carrier group after I broke the old one (pressed on the bearing and snapped on the ear where the fork sits -oops). 

Edited by Jjtxaz24
Measured TOB Carrier
  • 2 weeks later...
Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I emailed the company and waiting for a response, figured I'd see if you guys got any idea. 

Which direction does the clutch disk go? It's not labeled nor does it indicate a specific way. 

A:20230412_122128.thumb.jpg.626ff4b940817bebf44eecd9523f289c.jpg

B:20230412_122109.thumb.jpg.43646a8b218e0f3702d617473e32f27a.jpg

I had it in the car as "A". 

Here's 2 other pics of them side by side.

20230412_125754.thumb.jpg.b1ad02ba780e9228118c33f1cac69fb8.jpg

20230412_125807.thumb.jpg.6d5a935e71198c49f35e52c73c09a2f0.jpg

As always, I appreciate your help. 

  • 1 month later...
Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

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Alright well I had some free time and it's all buttoned up. Still not working. 

Mantic warrantied out the clutch and I threw that in there. Dropped it on the ground and didn't go anywhere.

I made sure to bleed it right. Pulled up the FSM and found I need to bleed the master, junction box and slave. Done. 

Screenshot_20230528_214814_Drive.thumb.jpg.526ff0f058a91df410ea558ab842b8db.jpg

I guess I just need a whole different clutch set up. I don't know what to do at this point. 😕

TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted

This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel?

If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

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40 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel?

If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.

I do think the release bearing is to tall (now that I installed it and ran into the same issue) for this clutch set up and that's why it's running into issues. I reached out to mantic and they didn't have any specifics to tell me as to what release bearing to use, all they said was its OEM compatible. Original that was in the car was 15mm I broke it and ordered a new one and that one was 18mm. That's what's in the car. Didn't work. 

I ended up just ordering a whole new kit that comes with everything. I looked at this when I first started to look for clutches and I should of just ordered it when I saw it. I would have saved myself the time and money from the get-go. 

Screenshot_20230529_203050_Brave.thumb.jpg.29c2109204b0220987f9244604a2d591.jpg

Silver lining to this is I have the removal and install of this heavy ass transmission and that top starter bolt down so I can get it done in an evening instead of over a few days on the weekend. Lol. 

  • Like 2
Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

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Well there's a saying round here that goes "third times the charm." Removed and installed the trans on Friday (had a day off and kids were at day care) in about 7 hrs with some breaks for lunch and sanity checks. 

Bled the clutch today and topped off the tranafer case (still gotta figure out how to get the 4WD light off on the dash - I vacuum Bled the actuator, but it's still on) but she drives perfectly. Clutch feels good and it's nice to have her out of the garage in time for some summer cruising... 

Maintenance never ends and still got little things to do but for now it's good. 

Learned some tips to get that starter bolt on/off and the top bell housing bolts. 

Thank you all for all your help!!

20230604_182725.thumb.jpg.e29480506e67c58d5bbf5a21bcb16924.jpg

  • Like 2
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed.

So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 hours ago, Duncan said:

Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed.

So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?

I'm excited to be driving it again and my boys are too. 

 

Yeah, I removed the mantic and used the xclutch twin. 

I honestly think the throw out bearing sleeve being 18mm is what was causing the problem. The original one I snapped is 15mm, when I ordered the new one that was "OEM" I measured it and it came to 18mm. I didn't measure the mantic kit to the xclutch. 

The one that came with the new clutch kit is 15mm. I reused my OE fork, and pivotball (just a new one) everything else is what was in the kit. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted

I figure a year isn't that long these days for a thread bump. How do I undo ridiculously tight rear driveshaft bolts? I bought a 6 point box end wrench and a dedicated wrench extender, I've tried heat + penetrating oil. What's the next step if all of that fails? Do I use a dremel to try and cut open the nut?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 8/15/2024 at 1:08 AM, GTSBoy said:

Yuh. Time for the hydraulic nut splitter. Or his poor Mexican cousin, el Grindo.

Turns out the solution was penetrating oil + time, but also a 6 point box end wrench with a 15 inch extension. I managed to also get my impact to fit without a u-joint which delivered enough torque to do the trick, but it required a regular chrome socket which is super dangerous and probably not recommended. U-joint took up way too more torque seemingly even at fairly straight angles.

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