Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty much as per title. I have to do a timing belt / water pump replacement so I'm trying to figure out the hurdles before I get to them. What are some ways of preventing the crank from turning while loosening or tightening the crank bolt with an auto gearbox? Maybe jamming something into the starter ring gear?

On 4/15/2023 at 9:39 AM, Ben C34 said:

Having said that I have done it with a screw driver on my own but that was on engine stand.in car would be more challenging.

Just double checking how you're locking (and accessing) the flex plate with the engine+trans in the car? Is that using a screwdriver in a vent/breather port directly under the bell housing?

Starter motor out.

On 4/18/2023 at 9:14 AM, zoomzoom said:

Just double checking how you're locking (and accessing) the flex plate with the engine+trans in the car? Is that using a screwdriver in a vent/breather port directly under the bell housing?

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, zoomzoom said:

I'll probably tackle this over the weekend. The manual says to remove the radiator, do you guys bother with that?

Yes, if not you'll have a hard time trying to remove the balancer.

Not saying it's impossible but you'll be swearing less, and not damaging your radiator in the process.

Also probably good time to inspect the radiator and replace if required.

I do not enjoy removing the Stagea starter motor or any if I can help it. I constructed these locking bars that attach to the front pulley. Only the M6 extractor bolts hold it in location, use high tensile bolts nipped up tight. I can get up to specified torque on pulley bolt with out the locker self destructing or bolts breaking. I've also used a piece of pipe about 30mm OD with some M10 bolts welded on, these engaged into the  lugs that exist on inner of the Stagea pulley. Not so for my RB20E R33, hasn't got those afore mentioned lugs. That is the crustier looking of the 2 items in photo, bit tighter fit in there on that one. The one with the ring is Stagea and I assume other RB25's.

 

plz8gd.jpg

  • Like 3

Yep, just got the radiator out and I think I'll make a tool to hold the pulley. Forget taking the starter out LOL

Funny that even the Nissan manual specifies a ring gear locking tool that requires taking the starter out.

Feeling a little nervous about those M6 threaded holes. The puller that I have only comes with some imperial bolts and they're all like M10 or M12 equivalent in size.

  • Like 1

Here's the tool I came up with if anyone needs some ideas on making their own. This is using the scrap I had lying around, just happened to have an ideal sized piece of steel pipe. The "teeth" are bits of M12 threaded rod, (obviously unthreaded would be fine too), and spaced out at 120 degrees. Just got the bolt loosened by myself, tightening shouldn't be too much of a hassle now either. 

balancertool.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...