Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new. 

Edited by silviaz
  • Haha 2

What tyres are you calling semi slicks?

Semis on front and back, or just back?

In saying that, you need to drive to the conditions, be gentle on the throttle

Have another set of rims with "good" all seasons grippy tyres on them for inclement weather or when your just cruising around

Think about the people that you may crash into and possibly injure, or kill, if you "spin out" driving on a public road in the wet, also thinl about how effective your braking is on a wet road with semi slicks, this is why I don't run motorsport type tyres when it's wet on public roads, the risk is to high

  • Thanks 1
2 hours ago, The Bogan said:

What tyres are you calling semi slicks?

Semis on front and back, or just back?

In saying that, you need to drive to the conditions, be gentle on the throttle

Have another set of rims with "good" all seasons grippy tyres on them for inclement weather or when your just cruising around

Think about the people that you may crash into and possibly injure, or kill, if you "spin out" driving on a public road in the wet, also thinl about how effective your braking is on a wet road with semi slicks, this is why I don't run motorsport type tyres when it's wet on public roads, the risk is to high

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

7 hours ago, silviaz said:

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

They are not semi-slicks, they seem to be a cheap long life tyre with some marketing 

They have a 380 tread wear rating

The RS4"s on my SS have a 200 tread wear and are OK in the wet if you don't drive like a pork chop

If they are that bad in the wet I would bin them

I cannot see them actually being really good in the dry with that high of a tread wear rating, the RE003's on my Yaris would probably be better than them with a tread wear of 220

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, silviaz said:

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

Not a semi slick, they are a long life drift tyre. Marketing hype.

7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Who the f**k are Valino Tyres?

Run something decent, like AD09, RS4, etc. Something with ~180TW is good for the street without being too sketchy in the wet. I flog my car in the wet.

You also need a proper LSD.

Japanese drift tyre company.
The above listed are quality Semi Slicks and are great in wet weather.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, The Bogan said:

They are not semi-slicks, they seem to be a cheap long life tyre with some marketing 

They have a 380 tread wear rating

The RS4"s on my SS have a 200 tread wear and are OK in the wet if you don't drive like a pork chop

If they are that bad in the wet I would bin them

I cannot see them actually being really good in the dry with that high of a tread wear rating, the RE003's on my Yaris would probably be better than them with a tread wear of 220

Ah ok, not sure why they say semi slicks on the website, the tread pattern looks like it? But yeah even if I give it a bit too much gas (which is not much) the back end will slide. I have to very carefully work my way up to speed. 

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Not a semi slick, they are a long life drift tyre. Marketing hype.

Japanese drift tyre company.
The above listed are quality Semi Slicks and are great in wet weather.

Great in wet weather you mean for sliding or as in grip well in wet weather?

Read some stuff from tire rack in relation to dry and wet weather tyres

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/category.jsp?category=PERFORMANCE

If it asks for a area code, type in 90210 which is a area code for Beverley Hills

download.jpeg-6.thumb.jpg.22d604cf700636c63096f3f03a0c2224.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 3
5 minutes ago, Watermouse said:

Do you have a recommendation for a shop that does a good job of installing LSDs in our gtt around Sydney/Newcastle?

I've taken my cars/diffs to Smithfield Gearbox & Diff and my mates to there too.

They know their Nissan shitboxes inside out 

Smithfield Diff & Gearbox

(02) 9604 8887

https://g.co/kgs/vtFyF8

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I've taken my cars/diffs to Smithfield Gearbox & Diff and my mates to there too.

They know their Nissan shitboxes inside out 

Smithfield Diff & Gearbox

(02) 9604 8887

https://g.co/kgs/vtFyF8

 

Awesome thank u so much mate

  • Like 1
On 10/27/2023 at 7:01 PM, silviaz said:

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new. 

Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top. 

With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about - 

* Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day. 

* Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water. 

* Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first. 

I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me. 

On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol. 

I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.

  • Like 3
8 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top. 

With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about - 

* Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day. 

* Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water. 

* Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first. 

I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me. 

On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol. 

I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.

Yep that's the one I'm thinking of getting, cheers mate! Great info there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...