Jump to content
SAU Community

Manual conversion

Deathkitteh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Deathkitteh Rookie

Deathkitteh

Posted
Posted

Hi guys this is my first post!

TLDR at the bottom!!

So a bit of backstory- Im currently having a big issue with my Auto GT25 R34 where it's stuck in limp mode (3rd gear only). The code is showing a solenoid issue and the A/T light is flashing upon start up. 

Things I've done to fix the issue:

- replacing the torque converter

- installing ×2 new transmissions

- replacing just the solenoids

- AFM is fine

- continuity/ grounding and any kind of wiring is all fine

- handed it off to 3 different mechanics who basically said "I can't figure it out, anyway you owe me $800 now." 

- Changed both transmission ECU's

- tested the IACV to ensure it was correct

 

I can't think of anything im possibly missing, and it seems as though no one can figure it out. There's no possible way it's the solenoids or a mechanical issue with the transmission. After installing a new trans ECU it worked almost perfect and then minutes after the A/T light started flashing and went into limp mode yet again.

I can see LOTS of other people have had the same issue but theirs either was resolved by any of the above things mentioned or they just manual swapped their car. I've spent almost 3 grand in parts and labour and 2 years trying to resolve this issue 

 

So ANYWAY,

I've decided to also manual swap my car considering I was planning on doing so in the future anyway.

Before anyone tells me "if you want a manual, you should have bought a manual from the start" I bought it for 8 grand a couple years ago when I couldn't drive manual and when they were worth about that much, and the car didn't skip a beat until 60,000km later, now a manual coupe R34 is worth at least 25 grand, and I can't exactly sell my car in this condition to make some decent money off it to save and buy a new one. 

So, where are the best places to buy a manual conversion kit and any tips on doing so? I can see the skyline shed is selling a kit but I know it's missing a few bits which is what I need help with. 

TLDR: I'm deciding to do a manual swap  and need suggestions on where to buy parts and any tips on doing the conversion itself. 

Any help or advice is appreciated!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485208-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites
robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

Find a pedal bracket, crossmember and tailshaft local then buy everything new through Nissan, Kudos motorsport or efi solutions. Braided clutch line from gktech.
The YEN is low at the moment and pending time frame could get through Streeter or RHDJapan.
A quality clutch and flywheel from NPC or direct clutch

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yes, I was going to say that because it's NA you can use either an NA box or a turbo box, and a turbo box is $4500 at worst, so call that done.

Then you need the clutch pedal stuff as Robo said. Tailshaft and gearbox crossmember can be made from scratch if absolutely necessary....for a cost, of course. But you should be calling around the wreckers, surfing (ugh, shudder) monkeyplace, for the bits you need.

You also need the manual side loom to save you having to find connectors and modify the auto side loom. Modding is possible (subject to obtaining the manual box's connectors), swapping the whole loom is easier.

You'll also need to sort out the speed sender. You have to hope there's one in the box (if you buy it 2nd hand) but if you buy it new you'll need to get a sender too. And then, there might be some fun getting it to work with the auto's cluster, as there may or may not be some differences there. I'm no expert on auto 34s. Greg ( @Kinkstaah ) might be able to tell you something about that.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Cluster is a direct plug and play/no issues swapping kind of thing. It will physically work identically other than the fact it'll have (unlit) PNDL etc selectors in it. And beep in reverse! It's been many years but I actually can't recall if you need to change a speed sensor. I want to say there's only a few wires that need fenagling and my brain does recall messing with a speed sensor, so I can't imagine a reason why I'd remember that unless I had to do it in the past!

There's other transmission options than the R34/RB Transmission in 2023, but given there's a N/A engine behind it it's probably best to keep it simple, and not have issues with complexity that can come with a 370z box, or a T56 gearbox or a ZF8 or something lol.

After years of pain and f**k arounds if you want a guaranteed solution that is going to outlast the N/A motor then the tried and true method is probably worth paying current_rates for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...