Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New reg arrived, no use hooking it up rail is coming out with injectors.

Sort out this bumper over next few days, finish restoration on headlights. 
post results of both shortly 

IMG_7806.jpeg

IMG_7808.jpeg

  • Like 1

Yeah mate, I’m not 100% how much damage this water has done to the crank and internals. At the moment my mate is sending me whole inlet man with injectors rail to bolt on. 
in the future it’s gonna get a decent amount of boost prob around 400-500hp so this motor is just gonna get it on the road and registered. 
see how it goes. Stage two turbo is still a long way off.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What do these look like?

https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/fuel-injector-o-ring-repair-kit-suit-nissan-skylin~46615

Fits many of the circa 1980s Bosch injectors. The gauze screen eventually gets (partially) restricted with fuel deposits, new base seal & Oring (they go hard), and the spray hole in the plastic pintle cap erodes after decades in service.

 

For the numbers I want from my rb30 I’m going a different ecu and it will be getting new injectors at some stage after it’s in the road.
But for that price, they will 100% be getting a service while they are out. Thanks mate

It's a fun job...did a little write-up here --> https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=159279.105

FTR, smoothed the idle out and the rb30 was more responsive...manifold vacuum at idle came up a bit (likely the base Orings leaking), and spark-plug colours evened out. An interesting little test, is to grab an eye-dropper/pipette and put a couple of drops of petrol in the old gauze filter, same again with new ones...see how long it takes to drip through 😃

Thing is the results are inconclusive because I replaced the injector connectors and fitted the intake runner spacer at the same time...but when you see & test the old gauze filters, there's little doubt this would've pushed fueling a little bit towards the thin side...

...btw... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2891341l00

....washer bottle cap, still available last time I checked.

  • Thanks 1

Front bar finished, headlights back together rebuilt next.
Fuel tank,bits and pieces on Monday. Cold side replaced by next weekend then we may have the first fire up. 
 

IMG_7852.jpeg

IMG_7840.jpeg

IMG_7837.jpeg

IMG_7834.jpeg

On 18/09/2024 at 8:03 PM, 25RBGT said:

headlights back together

sorry to be pedantic about this, but I'd love to see more details about this.

Background: I'm a retrofitter, and when I get off my lazy arse, I have a projector pair and a brick pair to retrofit (with either HID or LED projectors).

Before and after of reflectors, two coats brushed on.

i used a bucket full of hot water to to heat up glue, then pry the lenses out a little with a flathead screwdriver and cutting with a Stanley.

I’m not sure how the paint will go but it’s my best chance without dipping. 

see the reflection in the picture I’m pointing? That’s two coats paint and you can see the state of it in before shot after I cleaned it 

 


 

 

IMG_7922.jpeg

IMG_7923.jpeg

IMG_7924.jpeg

IMG_7925.jpeg

IMG_7926.jpeg

  • Like 1

Obviously he got here on Monday, we managed not to hurt ourselves ....fuel tank looks far more useful now (instead of sitting in an unused car like it has been), but there's so much more to do...

@25RBGT Forgot to say, if you need anything else off that car, just let me know...

  • Thanks 1

Thanks mate yeah ready to move onto the next step now. Get this motor running then I will want the box to drive it around my yard instead of pushing the thing haha

Time to get the ass end off the stands and the wheels back on. Finally tank complete 

  • 2 weeks later...

Today myself and a mate tracked a fuel pump issue down to this amazing piece of workmanship in the fuel cradle loom. Covered by conduit and electrical tape.

so now we should be moving onto the first fire once this is corrected. 🤞🤔

IMG_8114.jpeg

IMG_8116.jpeg

IMG_8115.jpeg

Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this...

..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway....

...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this...

....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)...

...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...

In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate.
The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo.

i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.

Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎

I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors.

You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/

Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle)

edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin

...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138

Edited by dbm7

Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used.

next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...