Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, have an s15 3.69 long nose abs diff in my r34 and would like to go to a 4.11 and 5 bolt shafts

Does anyone know if pinion and crown wheels from a NON abs diff (short nose) will fit inside the abs (long nose) diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485826-r200-abs-vs-non-abs-internals/
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, RyzXne said:

Hi there, have an s15 3.69 long nose abs diff in my r34 and would like to go to a 4.11 and 5 bolt shafts

Does anyone know if pinion and crown wheels from a NON abs diff (short nose) will fit inside the abs (long nose) diff?

Ring & pinions are not interchangeable between long and short nose. Pinion is longer in a long nose diff. Cheers. 

How did you get a S15 diff to fit in your R34? I understand in a R33 with ABS but doesn't make sense as the diff is the same length as a R33 non ABS. R34 has 2x ABS rings and sensors on the output flange where as a S15 or R33 has the ABS sensor on the diff input flange area.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How did you get a S15 diff to fit in your R34? I understand in a R33 with ABS but doesn't make sense as the diff is the same length as a R33 non ABS. R34 has 2x ABS rings and sensors on the output flange where as a S15 or R33 has the ABS sensor on the diff input flange area.

Pov spec R34s (ie, without turbo), and in particular auto ones (I think) have that silly diff with the slightly longer nose with the speed sensor on the side of the nose. I'm not even sure that it's an ABS sensor. I think it's actually the VSS sender. Anyway, it's not an S15 diff, it's whatever was jammed into the stupid things.

Nope, the R34 Non-turbos have literal S15 parts for their subframe, axles, diff, diff internals, and ABS system (including the ABS ECU and wiring/pinouts)

The non turbo part is where the difference is.

  • Like 1

It's just one of those bugbears that I bring over from Facebook. Lots of people think the dividing line between them is Sedan vs Coupe or Manual vs Auto for some/any feature but it's always NA vs Turbo (or GTV).

I have no idea if GTV got the GTT rear end. I'm just gonna pretend I know and say "yes they did"

3 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I have no idea if GTV got the GTT rear end. I'm just gonna pretend I know and say "yes they did"

And you'd be correct. The GTV got the viscous LSD (I'm pretty sure they didn't get any helicals) and the same fork shock connection as the GTT and GTR. For all intents and purposes it's a non-turbo GTT.

16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How did you get a S15 diff to fit in your R34? I understand in a R33 with ABS but doesn't make sense as the diff is the same length as a R33 non ABS. R34 has 2x ABS rings and sensors on the output flange where as a S15 or R33 has the ABS sensor on the diff input flange area.

My car was originally an na auto GTV hence it has the abs sensor at the front of the diff. Previous owner swapped the diff out for an s15 3.69

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Pov spec R34s (ie, without turbo), and in particular auto ones (I think) have that silly diff with the slightly longer nose with the speed sensor on the side of the nose. I'm not even sure that it's an ABS sensor. I think it's actually the VSS sender. Anyway, it's not an S15 diff, it's whatever was jammed into the stupid things.

You would be correct. It is "technically" an abs sensor but it is used for vehicle speed to the na dash cluster

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

And you'd be correct. The GTV got the viscous LSD (I'm pretty sure they didn't get any helicals) and the same fork shock connection as the GTT and GTR. For all intents and purposes it's a non-turbo GTT.

Correct. They came with a viscous lsd or open diff with the sensor in the nose of the diff. Brakes from a GTT, shocks and hicas from GTT as well. Only thing drivetrain related that isnt GTT is the diff and gearbox which would be all na stuff

learn something everyday!

In that case you would be better off just getting a R33 GTS-t diff, 5 bolt stubs and shafts. Similar to what the S15 guys do, at the same time put in a proper LSD centre as the viscous centre is junk.

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

learn something everyday!

In that case you would be better off just getting a R33 GTS-t diff, 5 bolt stubs and shafts. Similar to what the S15 guys do, at the same time put in a proper LSD centre as the viscous centre is junk.

yep thats the plan now. only problem is theyre impossible to find. I wanted to see if the crown and pinion from a non abs would fit cause those are a dime a dozen. There's a guy selling a non abs 4.11 with axles and a 2 way for cheap as f**k but wont suit my car unfortunately :(. Just gotta stay on the hunt for an abs diff and axles when they do pop up. For now just gonna rebuild my 6 bolt axles and take it easy on the car until i can get a new diff and axles

46 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Is it a S15 helical diff? if so they're decent.

Just a few idiosyncrasies to deal with when going up driveways when 1x wheel is off the ground, etc.

it is indeed a helical. it feels nice on the road but the ratio is way too long for me and I like to drift the car. I need a proper lsd and stronger axles for the amount of abuse this thing gets ahahaha. Also doesn't help that im a stance boi that has air suspension so my car is sacked to the ground. Diff always one wheel peels when im going up my driveway which is annoying as f**k

2 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Use the handbrake to load it up!

Could try a S15 Auto LSD, brings it to a 3.9

Tried that ahahah, thats what broke my inner cv joint. Handbrake + clutch kick and then broke the cv joint bearing

10 minutes ago, RyzXne said:

Tried that ahahah, thats what broke my inner cv joint. Handbrake + clutch kick and then broke the cv joint bearing

Sounds like an issue with the car's height than anything else.

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sounds like an issue with the car's height than anything else.

The car itself when driving doesn't sit too low. Front bumper is probably 80mm off the ground but chassis rails and everything else sits at least 120mm off the ground. Could possibly be the alignment settings I have now are pulling the axles out of the diff/hubs a bit but its all basically factory specs 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...