Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People,

has anyone come up with a way of getting non-driven wheel speed on a R32 Gts/gtst? from what i've seen the RWD R32 didn't look to come with ABS, if they did i can't find a rwd ABS front knuckle anywhere.

is it a case of putting a S14/R33 front knuckle on and then modifying the ASB ring to suit a ECU input frequency limit? or have people managed to get a hall sensor onto the back of the hub and pick up the wheel studs?

 

i've searched but there isn't anything that I could find.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485837-r32-gtsgtst-non-driven-wheel-speed/
Share on other sites

there are probably many ways to do it

for my bosch motorsport abs we used a r33 gtst abs front knuckle and modified the rear knuckle to allow sensor to sit and read

understand time, effort and $$ but reading from anywhere else  you get diff chatter etc where you lose 30% ish in signal clarity compared to the above

  • Like 1

Sweet thanks mate, I did wonder if its easier to try and find a R33 knuckle and make that fit, is it just a case of changing the lower ball joint?

I'm getting drive wheel speed off the gearbox speed sensor which is fine so far to 230kph

19 hours ago, Looney_Head said:

Sweet thanks mate, I did wonder if its easier to try and find a R33 knuckle and make that fit, is it just a case of changing the lower ball joint?

I'm getting drive wheel speed off the gearbox speed sensor which is fine so far to 230kph

correct Ive moved to a r33 oem ball joint - they are actually thicker than alot of the after market and similar 

  • Like 2
16 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

Get r32 abs uprights? That's what I have on my car. I've got some new tone rings if you want them. I just run a gt101 in the abs hole, pretty simple. 

I can get you some pictures on the weekend if you like

Yeah agree but probem is you cant find any!  Not many made in the first place and now like hens teeth

  • Like 1

Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably).

 

All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work.  Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :(

 

I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket.

  • Like 1

thanks Roy, i did look into z32 front knuckles but saw it was a ballache so didn't bother. my local nissan parts dealer says he has a R32 ABS gts front knuckle, so i'm going to investigate that and see what it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...