Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn.

Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing

Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)

7 hours ago, Kyer32 said:

so I need a new speedo cable 

Nope.

The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head.

To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy.

I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.

On 8/1/2025 at 6:29 AM, Duncan said:

It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn.

Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing

Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)

 

1 minute ago, Kyer32 said:

My tyres are 215/45/r17 the 32 is a type m

 

On 8/1/2025 at 7:21 AM, GTSBoy said:

Nope.

The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head.

To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy.

I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.

So if anything it’s be the seal speedo drive sorry it’s being awhile since I worked on one of these is the drive connected to the gearbox or behind the cluster 

Yep ! 

Cluster out first.

Dismantle.

Check for oil grease. If oil and grease = clean.

Then check seal at the drive coming from the gearbox. 

Seal broken  = change seal.

Doing it the other way around it will again push grease/oil back into the cluster and then your gonna have to do the cluster clean all over again !

 

On 7/1/2025 at 11:26 PM, GTSBoy said:

I would guess the seal has gone down at the speedo drive and gearbox oil has crept up the drive cable sheath and fouled the speedo head.

 

On 7/1/2025 at 11:32 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)

 

1 minute ago, MBS206 said:

What makes you guess that tyre size specifically?

Just tried researching factory type m spec that’s all I can find 

Search for your VIN in gtr-registry.com and see what it left with from factory. There's 4.3:1 and 4.11:1 diff ratios IIRC, can't remember what models had what.

Also could be tyre size, by factory the speedo reads a tad quicker >80 km/h but constantly out be 10 km/h is weird.

Maybe someone wound the odometer back, and accidentally bumped the needle up?

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Search for your VIN in gtr-registry.com and see what it left with from factory. There's 4.3:1 and 4.11:1 diff ratios IIRC, can't remember what models had what.

Also could be tyre size, by factory the speedo reads a tad quicker >80 km/h but constantly out be 10 km/h is weird.

Maybe someone wound the odometer back, and accidentally bumped the needle up?

Well found out it’s a 60th anniversary gtst from that it came with 205-55r15

Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine.

The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember.

On 1/12/2025 at 9:44 PM, GTSBoy said:

No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare.

4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11.

4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.

The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...