Jump to content
SAU Community

Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

PotatoCake
 Share

Recommended Posts

PotatoCake Enthusiast

PotatoCake

Posted
Posted

The steering wheel on my 97 s3 gtr is a little bit worn out, so im on the hunt for something mint. I notice that this type of steering wheel is on several other nissan's of the era. 

Does anyone know if their all identical, or are there slight differences? I feel like gtr tax applies to anyone selling one, but if it comes from any other car the price is much less, even though its the same design. 

Chat gpt says the material for the gtr is slightly different and it says gtr on the wheel, but every pic ive seen it just says nissan. 

art-mg-nissanr33gtr14.jpg

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, PotatoCake said:

The steering wheel on my 97 s3 gtr is a little bit worn out, so im on the hunt for something mint. I notice that this type of steering wheel is on several other nissan's of the era. 

Does anyone know if their all identical, or are there slight differences? I feel like gtr tax applies to anyone selling one, but if it comes from any other car the price is much less, even though its the same design. 

Chat gpt says the material for the gtr is slightly different and it says gtr on the wheel, but every pic ive seen it just says nissan. 

art-mg-nissanr33gtr14.jpg

ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped.

They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.

  • Like 1
PotatoCake Enthusiast

PotatoCake

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.

Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t

The SRS airbags module in under the centre console.

The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel.

FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go.

S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, PotatoCake said:

Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?

Because the drive dog for the steeering angle sensor is present on wheels that came in HICAS cars and not present on wheels that came on non-HICAS cars.

Not that I would let that bother me, because HICAS is trash and any excuse to get rid of it is a good excuse.

PotatoCake Enthusiast

PotatoCake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ive got a hicas lock bar, so thats effectivley disables it. 

I found this wheel on market place, looks to be in pretty good condition, would it just bolt straight in?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1218520015890587

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I don't know. The main problem is that link is clearly at FB marketplace, and I have never willingly clicked a link that will take me to any Meta owned website. Even if it wasn't clear, I would hover over it to find out before clicking on it anyway, same as I do for all links everywhere.

Just good internet hygiene + refusal to participate in the lizard man's empire.

But, you will need to deal with the inevitable HICAS light that will come up if you stop the steering angle sensor from working. On an R32, this is as simple as unplugging the smaller of the two loom plugs in the back of the HICAS CU. I don't know if this works on later HICASs.

  • Haha 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, PotatoCake said:

Ive got a hicas lock bar, so thats effectivley disables it. 

I found this wheel on market place, looks to be in pretty good condition, would it just bolt straight in?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1218520015890587

Should work if it came out of a GTST.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Old thread, but you get the idea.

 

S2/S3 GTS-t shit boxes or GT-R require the steering wheel without the additional module as the airbag control module is under the centre console. Where as the S1/S1.5 shit boxes have it built into the wheel.

 

  • Like 1
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Old thread, but you get the idea.

 

S2/S3 GTS-t shit boxes or GT-R require the steering wheel without the additional module as the airbag control module is under the centre console. Where as the S1/S1.5 shit boxes have it built into the wheel.

 

Most of the R33 GTST S1 are all like "airbag? What airbag?!"

  • Haha 1
PotatoCake Enthusiast

PotatoCake

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

S2/S3 GTS-t shit boxes or GT-R require the steering wheel without the additional module as the airbag control module is under the centre console. Where as the S1/S1.5 shit boxes have it built into the wheel.

I sense much love for the gtst

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

No. All these dirty old Datsuns are shitboxes. Including the GTR.

Correct, I didn't put GT-R in the same category in this thread, incase I offend anyone.

But @GTSBoy  knows my true thoughts on all Nissans.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Absolutely. R34 Sedans with V8's in them are the peak of the platform and should be priced accordingly. Get with the times, people.

It's Brian O'Connor + Dom Torreto + FAMILY all in one.

  • Haha 1
PotatoCake Enthusiast

PotatoCake

Posted
  • Author
Posted
42 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

They need to get a grip. R32 GTRs got as low as AU$8-10K at one point here.

Dont disrespect family, otherwise swat will you know...

Yeh i still cant wrap my head around 180's going for $50k plus, i still only see them as $3,000 beaters that only broke uni students used to drive

  • Like 1
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted
On 05/04/2025 at 9:10 AM, GTSBoy said:

No. All these dirty old Datsuns are shitboxes. Including the GTR.

 

On 05/04/2025 at 12:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Correct, I didn't put GT-R in the same category in this thread, incase I offend anyone.

But @GTSBoy  knows my true thoughts on all Nissans.

oi
(you're right though)

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...