Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interloper - yeah it was due to the fact that both of those guys have aftermarket turbo's plus other things where as my and the other guys cars are reasonably stock other than say suspension, ecu and exhaust.

So if an RB20 had a lowmount HKS 2540 or whatever it would be allowed into class C? provided they couldn't tell it was an aftermarket turbo :)

  • Replies 218
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well lets just say there was a certain turk with aftermarket low mounts on his GTR that was in class D.

But the RB20 would still be in Class D - not Class C. When determining Classes via engine capacity - turbo cars have to multiply there capacity by a factor of 1.7 - so a 2L turbo engine = 3.4L after turbo factor is considered.

well lets just say there was a certain turk with aftermarket low mounts on his GTR that was in class D.

But the RB20 would still be in Class D - not Class C. When determining Classes via engine capacity - turbo cars have to multiply there capacity by a factor of 1.7 - so a 2L turbo engine = 3.4L after turbo factor is considered.

Ok, thanks for that. I didn't think they would put such a high multiplying factor like 1.7. I suppose thats good for you then - being in the same class as much smaller skylines and you having Rb26 goodness :D

:)

Incase you guys didn't know yet the results from the PIARC weekend are finally up on their website.

Some interesting points:

1. They took Adz's last session off him. No 1.58 for you boy. That'll teach ya to use cheater tyres. haha.

2. BRI 58Y could only manage a best time of 2.24.52 - and he reckon's 1.25's at Sandown?

3. I do get a trophey :D But they expect me to get it on Grand Final weekend :D

LOL...2.24s is quick considering its only an RB20 with TD06, susp work, semi clicks etc on it :D

Roll on the 1.25s at Sandown. :)

Yeah put it this way - I dont agree with it. You can go to a MSCA sprint and a guy with a stock Pulsar or an Astra Turbo is against me.

So next year we will hold a SAU VIC "Club Championship" And there will be classes to better represent our club. We won't be holding our own track days but will be doing things like going to a number of track days with invitations and we'll set up our own results.

Like the up-coming HSV day - if you dont own a Holden or Ford you are just lumped into the "accociated" class.

Cool with that. They'll see we're amongst them.

And my turbo is stock......on the outside. If I knew what was inside I'd run more boost. In fact I could have run stock and still made the same placing. Now for a personal set of sticky tyres. Shouldn't have blown 5K on a holiday to Koh Samui.

So next year we will hold a SAU VIC "Club Championship" And there will be classes to better represent our club. We won't be holding our own track days but will be doing things like going to a number of track days with invitations and we'll set up our own results.  

Sounds good - i'm looking forward to it. :headspin:

:D

I can't heel/toe, how am i gonna go on track??? Also is it safe to do 240k/h with spacers? Do i need to practice heel/toe before going on track or will i adapt during the way.

you'll be fine without heal/toeing, although you should start practising.

to get around any problems, just change down gear late during braking, not as soon as you hit the brakes, as long as you get the right gear you won't lock the wheels.

dunno about the spacers, I value my life too much to try them :D Is there plenty of thread left for the wheel nuts?

I can't heel/toe, how am i gonna go on track??? Also is it safe to do 240k/h with spacers? Do i need to practice heel/toe before going on track or will i adapt during the way.

Jesus...240km/h. You must have some decent mods to be hitting those sorts of speeds :D

Heel and toe is so easy. Its not hard to pick up, start doing it when you are slowing and there is no traffic around...you will pick it up pretty quick and soon you will never ever downchange again without a little blip to match the revs. :) BUT whilst its easy, get confident on the street first, nothing could be worse then getting tied up when you are trying to stop in a hurry at the track :Oops:

the pissy small accelerator pedal in the skylines make it harder to heal/toe also coz you gotta rotate ur heal alot to bleep the throttle. I have locked up the rear on the road practising alot of times and i still suck at it

:confused: In the R32s and R33s ive driven the pedals are positioned perfectly fo heel and toe.

When you start to brake apply your foot to the brake at an angle of approx30-45 degrees...whatevers comfortable. As the name suggests you only have the ball of your foot on the brake. So when you are about to release the clutch all you have to do is stab the throttle with your heel.

Dont try and rotate your foor if you are already on the brakes. After a while it becomes so second nature that you arent even really heel and toein, you somply roll your foot at the ankle and that bleeps the throttle enough for a downchange. But i would not start of trying that as you typically have to place your foor offset of centre on the brake pedal, and first things first...you are trying to stop the car so keep your foot inthe middle of the pedal so as not to skip off the pedal.

But typing the dribble probably makes it sound hard, its not its piss easy, you just perhaps need to see someone do it first .:D

Piss off Shan....is this thing ever going to see the track...or my garage mate:D?

I don't have enough flexibility to turn my foot in that far so have never bothered in the Skyline and have always used a custom pedal in other race cars. The current momo CF set are well placed but I have to raise the brake pedal or remove some play in the braking system as there is too much pedal drop and I contact the accelerator too early. It only needs to come up a little. This way feels more natural for me as my foot is vertical in braking and I just tap with the heel onto the accel pedal.

Piss off Shan....is this thing ever going to see the track...or my garage mate:D?

 

I don't have enough flexibility to turn my foot in that far so have never bothered in the Skyline and have always used a custom pedal in other race cars. The current momo CF set are well placed but I have to raise the brake pedal or remove some play in the braking system as there is too much pedal drop and I contact the accelerator too early. It only needs to come up a little. This way feels more natural for me as my foot is vertical in braking and I just tap with the heel onto the accel pedal.

Hey Skylinegeoff, since you've got things that i've pm you earlier, are they alright to do 200km/h safe and sound?

Hey Skylinegeoff, since you've got things that i've pm you earlier, are they alright to do 200km/h safe and sound?

LOL...Geoffs car is ready to be shot into outer space, so thats got to be 8 or 9 times the speed of sound, :D So 220km/hr is fine with spacers, provided:

- the nut stll has plenty of turns on the threads

- they are nipped up nice and tight (cant hurt to check after each session)

- ewen better if they are like Geoffs and they are captive :)

Yes mine bolt onto the hub and have a further set of studs in them for the wheels. They are more than safe in this configuration for pretty much any car and they have an alignment shoulder for locating the rim.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
    • Yeah Jap import. Fairlady Z then! I'm a bit the same.  They've been on my radar for a fair while but then just impulsively decided to buy one!  Was going to just buy an NA and add turbos to it later but decided to save the f'ing around and just buy the turbo version. 
    • Thanks mate, well done to you too! Yeah not looking forward to doing any major work to it!
×
×
  • Create New...