Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 218
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R32Big_boy: When I was going to the track I followed one rule and one rule only. Go faster than you went last time doesn't matter if you go 0.01s faster or 10s faster as long as you improve. It is the only comparison that is relevant.

If you look through Motor magazine and see what times Cameron McConville gets out of stock cars (1'48" from stock Evo 6.5 (from memory)) you can see that there is so much speed left to get from the driver before wasting money on the car.

Suspension and brakes are the best upgrade as I look at them both as reliability upgrades. Riding the bump stops around southern loop on the stock suspension is no good for anything.

Did you mean turn 6...? Not much of a drift action was happenning, you were mostly spinning them on a straight line. A lot of smoke though, the girls thought someone blew up. :P

You were too slow anyway, so i took you over. :)

What can I say, I lack traction on street tyres :wassup: Thought I might loose you in a cloud of smoke.
....If you look through Motor magazine and see what times Cameron McConville gets out of stock cars (1'48" from stock Evo 6.5 (from memory)) you can see that there is so much speed left to get from the driver before wasting money on the car......

:werd:

Godamn i am soo enverious of you lot. Hopefully i'm getting brakes and suspension within a month or so. That way troy and i can go at gtst style. Not that i'll stand a chance against any one.

Forget suspension, and for brakes all you need is some good front pads and some good fluid, you are only doing max 5 hard laps, if they start to go away just give them a lap to cool down.

I wasted plenty of money on susp only to go 0.5seconds quicker around Wakefield. Over the next 18months i pulled 6 seconds out of my best lap time without a single mod.

Just get out there and enjoy it. Unless your Scotsman, odds are your car will be far quicker then you the first few times :)

Jarrod - look at Adz. He was running street tyres (mostly), stock suspension and stock brakes. He was doing fine. Yeah sure he wants to improve all of those things eventually but he was still out there giving it a go and learning.

As he can vouch once he chucked on the semi's - you will appreciate the upgrades more if you've had a run with out them for comparison!

Anyways..... whats the next plan boys? We have to get this Sydney sider Duncan out to some real tracks (especially Sandown and Phillip Island so he can actually go fast on a track for a change! haha!)

Forget suspension, and for brakes all you need is some good front pads and some good fluid, you are only doing max 5 hard laps, if they start to go away just give them a lap to cool down.

I wasted plenty of money on susp only to go 0.5seconds quicker around Wakefield. Over the next 18months i pulled 6 seconds out of my best lap time without a single mod.

Just get out there and enjoy it. Unless your Scotsman, odds are your car will be far quicker then you the first few times :)

Roy what brake fluid / pads are good for road / few track days which dont need 1 lap to get warmed up and wont spew brake dust all over ya rims?

Denham,

They say you shouldn't use "street pads" more than once on the track. If you are going for a track pad thats also ok on the streets (like RB74's etc) then the fact is they are dusty.

There's no such thing as a non dusty / non agressive when cold pad thats good on the track.

I'm using the Castrol SRF brake fluid which is awesome - but not cheap.

However - if you want a good read on people opinions on lots of different pads that people use on the track then check out this thread.

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/topic.as...asp?TOPIC_ID=36

Racebarkes recommend RB74 front and Comp 2 rear for the GTS25t. I'm happy with the RB74 front and the rear do very little. I also use Motul DOT 5.1 fluid and had no fade on PI or Sandown. At PI I was out braking a lot of serious track cars on semi comp rubber, but I doubt they were using their capacity.

Word to the wise team. Don't spend a lot of bucks to find this is not your thing. The only people who will be impressed with your mods is yourself. Non trackies have no concept of what you do and the rest of us trackies will have loads of respect for you just for having a go. Just do the safety basics of brake pads and car fluids and get out there, but gently at first. You will sooon establish what is absolutely necessary.

Racebarkes recommend RB74 front and Comp 2 rear for the GTS25t. I'm happy with the RB74 front and the rear do very little. I also use Motul DOT 5.1 fluid and had no fade on PI or Sandown. At PI I was out braking a lot of serious track cars on semi comp rubber, but I doubt they were using their capacity.

 

Word to the wise team. Don't spend a lot of bucks to find this is not your thing. The only people who will be impressed with your mods is yourself. Non trackies have no concept of what you do and the rest of us trackies will have loads of respect for you just for having a go. Just do the safety basics of brake pads and car fluids and get out there, but gently at first. You will sooon establish what is absolutely necessary.

How do you find that brake pad combo during daily driving geoff??

And what price are these roughly??

Really good performance, althought they feel a little wooden afetr an event for a couple of days. I need to bleed again I think as my pedal is dropping a bit far.

They don't grab on application but resond well to increasing pressure and when you really push them hard they REALLY start to work a lot harder. I've had some track pads that you had to really muscle when cold.

Price is around $150 per axle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...