Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1) Make sure you have Jap english support on your operating system. Some of the files are in Jap and won't be able to uncompress if you don't have it enabled (Start>settings>control panel>regional and language settings>or something like that)

2) Copy the maps (you can only play with the maps until you get the cable) into a seperate directory. Right click on the directory with the executable and go down to properties. Insert a Japanese character (any will do, try this ススカイライン) into the directory name.

The cable is a complicated device (well, to a layman like me it is) and will require a bit of work. More on that tomorrow, just download the stuff and host it before I get torched and have to remove it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009321
Share on other sites

Doughboy... can't help but feeling that the first post was directed at me... :D hehe. I haven't as yet replied to any of the PM's I got about the power FC software, but I was gonna charge somewhere around $20 for a copy.

aaaaanyway seeing as you've got the software (well... part of it, there's other revisions as well that work with different PFC's) you will no doubt have the instuctions on how to make the cable. I have the instructions as well, but am having some trouble sourcing some parts to make the cable, specifically the NEC reprogrammer that you need to flash the PFC with so you can use a non proprietory cable to communicate with it. Total cost of the cable itself should be around $250 to make. Thoughts, ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009372
Share on other sites

This is great guys, I'll be in for a group buy if it will help with cable pricing. (I also have access to trade priced at a few IT and electrical places if it is of use to anyone)

PS - I have looked at the software a few times now but I cant find the setting for "WARNING MANIFOLD PRESSURE TOO HIGH" or the "DROP PASSENGERS FLOOR PAN - sparks set to 85%" activation settings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009524
Share on other sites

...Let the engine torchings begin! lol :D

LOL... what do you know about tuning, anything you can do i can do better...provided the aim is to throw a rod thru the drivers window of the car alongside you, i bet i can mix it with the best :headspin:

Oh, and leaner mixtiures means more power right? :Bang:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...