Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1) Make sure you have Jap english support on your operating system. Some of the files are in Jap and won't be able to uncompress if you don't have it enabled (Start>settings>control panel>regional and language settings>or something like that)

2) Copy the maps (you can only play with the maps until you get the cable) into a seperate directory. Right click on the directory with the executable and go down to properties. Insert a Japanese character (any will do, try this ススカイライン) into the directory name.

The cable is a complicated device (well, to a layman like me it is) and will require a bit of work. More on that tomorrow, just download the stuff and host it before I get torched and have to remove it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009321
Share on other sites

Doughboy... can't help but feeling that the first post was directed at me... :D hehe. I haven't as yet replied to any of the PM's I got about the power FC software, but I was gonna charge somewhere around $20 for a copy.

aaaaanyway seeing as you've got the software (well... part of it, there's other revisions as well that work with different PFC's) you will no doubt have the instuctions on how to make the cable. I have the instructions as well, but am having some trouble sourcing some parts to make the cable, specifically the NEC reprogrammer that you need to flash the PFC with so you can use a non proprietory cable to communicate with it. Total cost of the cable itself should be around $250 to make. Thoughts, ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009372
Share on other sites

This is great guys, I'll be in for a group buy if it will help with cable pricing. (I also have access to trade priced at a few IT and electrical places if it is of use to anyone)

PS - I have looked at the software a few times now but I cant find the setting for "WARNING MANIFOLD PRESSURE TOO HIGH" or the "DROP PASSENGERS FLOOR PAN - sparks set to 85%" activation settings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009524
Share on other sites

...Let the engine torchings begin! lol :D

LOL... what do you know about tuning, anything you can do i can do better...provided the aim is to throw a rod thru the drivers window of the car alongside you, i bet i can mix it with the best :headspin:

Oh, and leaner mixtiures means more power right? :Bang:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50883-powerfc-software/#findComment-1009536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...