Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lets go back to my first post to add a little more confusion, if my diff was an open wheeler would it transfer drive power between wheels which was the reason i posted this question in the first place, never seen it happen before??

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It can do. It just means that when you changed gears, for a brief moment both tyres would get grip. The one that had been spinning would be nice and hot and therefore when power was reapply the hot had more grip so the other tyre let go as that was now the path of least resistance.

Does that make sense?

Please still give us advice on the correct way to get the mechanical diff to work again

rsx 84....yes....doc 30 was correct..............proper way to fix the mech lsd....rebuild it......dodgy back yard mechanic way....flog the living bejesus out of it to try and ge the plates to free up.

rsx 84....yes....doc 30 was correct..............proper way to fix the mech lsd....rebuild it......dodgy back yard mechanic way....flog the living bejesus out of it to try and ge the plates to free up.

i'll change to oil as i think it'll need that, see how that goes, cars only gone maybe 100kms in total since i've owned it (2 years or so now). jason saw the pics of your car in the Qld section, nice one very nice indeed, shame mine wasn't back from the sparkies or i'd have tagged along to take the old girl for a run. :uh-huh:

should I run some cleaning agent in the diff before puttin new oil in?  It is a 23yr old diff.

the most important thing is not to breathe. I just did the oil in my 24yo diff and it smelt like something had died in there long ago...horrible....and it came out looking like mud....

I just chuck the new oil in mine but I don't really expect it to be around long anyway

jack the car up so both rear wheels are off the ground.....handbrake off...out of gear.....(make sure you have chocked the front wheels.) spin one rear wheel....the other should spin the same way=LSD othe wheel spins the opposite way=open diff

rsx84, it simply sounds like the clutches have worn to the point of the diff becoming open. It doesn't take much actual wear for this to happen. The 2 inner clutch plates in my DR30 R20LSD were down 0.003" on each side - total wear 0.012" and that was enough for the diff to become completely open.

A pair of new inner clutch plates & possibly just the reversal of the outer clutch plates (they have friction material on both sides, but only 1 side is in use on the non-competition diffs) will probably get you back in the 40ft/lbs breakaway area. I had a couple of shims put in my diff, which measured 90ft/lbs after the rebuild. It chatters the inside wheel on slippery surfaces at low speeds, but is perfectly civil once you get going. I expect that the breakaway is a little less now (20,000km later).

This diff is destined to be re-fitted to my 240Z

I have a 4.375:1 R200 LSD that measures 65ft/lbs after reversing the outer clutches only - this one will get fitted to my DR30 & should improve acceleration by quite a bit.

Another 3.90:1 is on the way from Japan - dunno what condition it's in. But I don't care - they can always be rebuilt with new parts for only a few hundred.

Try using Castrol LSX-90 or a fully synthetic LSD oil. And try to change it every 15-20,000km.

just to add insult to injury, for the last 2 days i've been driving the car around with my 17" p1s' with 235 rears and now i don't know if the diffs gone or my clutch if rooted too, just wants to rev out with no forward go at all?? might put the 205's back on to see if that makes any difference? any ideas......Matt

just to add insult to injury, for the last 2 days i've been driving the car around with my 17" p1s' with 235 rears and now i don't know if the diffs gone or my clutch if rooted too, just wants to rev out with no forward go at all?? might put the 205's back on to see if that makes any difference? any ideas......Matt

Tyre size should have no effect whatsoever.

  • 3 weeks later...
lets go back to my first post to add a little more confusion, if my diff was an open wheeler would it transfer drive power between wheels which was the reason i posted this question in the first place, never seen it happen before??

Something that should be understood, right from the outset.

Nissan stock fit R200 LSD's, that were in all DR & HR30 Skylines were a SALES pitch and had absolutely nothing to do with performance.

IF you want your R200 LSD to work like an LSD is designed, you need to have some real dollars spent on it to increase the PRELOAD.

Stock, Nissan put less than 20lb of preload in their R200 LSD's unless NISMO spec, which is 50-60lb, my Cusco centre had 50lb and I had it increased to 70-80lb at a cost of $400.00 at Stewart Wilkins workshop at Windsor.

rsx84, there could be absolutely nothing wrong with your LSD, if as stock, because they are very prone to wheel spin, same as an open diff, if the preload is not increased.

As for OIL! I use Mobilube SHC 75W/90 Mobil Synthetic Gear & Diff Oil in my LSD without any problems, and it's available at any Mobil garage

If you are serious with your car, you should be using ALL synthetic lubricants. I recently rebuilt the rear axle assembly, replaced the rear wheel bearings and washed all the grease out of the new bearings and replaced it with synthetic Mobiltemp 220. Did same in front wheel bearings.

Ghostrider-do you know the specs of an HR31 R200 LSD? My diff has not been tightened,that I know of,and it will rotate both wheels,under any circumstances from a standing start,or low speeds....

Open wheeling round medium speed corners,or when the rear is under a lot of body roll,is a different matter though......... :D

the car is in the shop at the moment, getting clutch replaced, will get the diff oil changed as well, you know after all this time the next place its going to is the compliance place to get the seats and mod plate fitted then rego and new personal plates...

I would not be in any great hurry to put a 4.375 ratio diff in a DR30 (actually yours is the RB20 HR30) . I tried that with my FJT Bluebird (4.375 H190 LSD) and found minimal gain and lots of revs for no good reason on the highway . I always found myself trying to change from 5th to the non existant 6th . The lowest I would go is 4.1 and often wish my RSX had a 3.7 . The RB26/31 will prefer it .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...