Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Anyone here replaced their turbo's with on thats been highflowed from this thread?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131723

If so what kinda results did you get, l'm contemplating getting one as the price is damn good!!

Anyone here replaced their turbo's with on thats been highflowed from this thread?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131723

If so what kinda results did you get, l'm contemplating getting one as the price is damn good!!

Tangles has one on, not tuned yet though, sounds like he is very happy so far.

Thats right, its an awesome turbo.

Getting tuned next month (Feb 07), in rwd, expect 240rwkw at 1bar, or thereabouts

Pulls god damned hard at 13.5psi tho :) (at 14psi R&R kicked in)

Spins up onto boost really really well at 13.5, so at 15psi I expect it to be a bit of a ball tearer.

Will post the AFR's and dyno graph for the SITC/SAFCII tuned Slide turbo'd Stagea, ASAP

Got a better copy of my dyno sheet now:

I have extensively changed the settings since it was tuned as it drove like shit with the tuner's settings.

Waaay too much R&R which i have now smoothed out with extra SAFC/SITC tweaks.

Mods:

3" exhaust dump back

SAFC2

SITC

Pod filter

Profec B S2

Running 11.5-12psi

dynosmall.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got my stag retuned at BoostWorx here in SA.

Actually they only have a 2WD dyno so we drove over to Turbo Tune (5 mins away) to use their 4WD dyno. Shaun from BoostWorx still did all the work however, we just borrowed their dyno for a bit.

Not a bad result, since it was tuned by another guy only a few months ago.

Gained an extra 10kw at the top end and some nice gains in the midrange.

AFR's were sitting below 11:1 but are now a nicer 12:1.

The extra 10kw is basically due to ignition timing however the safc tuning improved the midrange somewhat.

Here's the pics...

(Max 158kw and note this is at all 4 wheels)

post-23960-1172104487.jpg post-23960-1172104503.jpg

I left the boost at 11-12 psi since I was happy with the power output and more boost would only affect the top end.

All in all it is still a bit laggy but with a big turbo like the GT30 its to be expected. Full boost seems to be around 4500rpm or thereabouts, although it starts winding up around 2500rpm. Its not all bad though, because cruising around off-boost saves on fuel :)

P.S. I do have the graph showing the official reading "157.9kw" but the other two graphs I have shown above were more meaningful - showing boost and AFR's. :)

Edited by pixel8r
Pixel8r : Looks like a boost controller would give you a decent hp bonus as your boost is falling off like the standard turbo.

I really need a better turbo that doesnt fall off after 5krpm :D

Yeah I know.

Otherwise i'd be happy to put up with the current boost controller but just up the boost a couple psi so it AVERAGES 11-12psi rather than just pokes at it initially... :(

but a decent boost controller costs a lot of money and mine cost $30 off ebay so I'm not complaining at all :(

Its a needle valve type (same as the $22 boost controller on this forum) so fairly reliable too.

My GT30 turbo really wants more boost than I give it (would be most efficient around 14-18 psi i'm guessing), but I'm moving interstate and will be training to rekindle my career in IT so once again the car is pushed further down the priority list :yes:

The biggest thing I noticed from my last tune is that I gained 10kw mainly through ignition timing - and the combination of ignition timing and more efficient tune with the SAFC has made the car noticeably more responsive right throughout the rev range. The car just feels a lot faster with more get up and go. I'm loving it ;)

$150 well spent! If anyone in SA has not been to boostworx yet, GO THERE. Your car will love you for it :(

got the car on the dyno today and still had some issues on higher boost with misfiring, it was upto 22psi and managed 584rwhp (436rwkw) but it was getting worse the hotter it got so boost was turned down to 18psi and managed 545rwhp (407rwkw), its still got the misfire issues and its wiring related so its getting a full check over to see whats the problem in the next few days.

still goes alright and has no trouble smoking tyres in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear now (in 2wd) :laugh: and its damn loud when revving out :laugh:

heres the final dyno graph as it is now...

IMG_2656edited.jpg

Edited by CruiseLiner

*schwiiiiinnng*

You must be happier than a dog with 2 doodles with an intermittant result like that. Can't wait to see what it will do fully sorted.

Well done dude!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...