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definately not kidding, lol

sounds like roughly the same area, between pipes 3 and 4 it is split in two.

these guys did a hell of a better job with the tune then the last place........

well, $800 later. was going to be a grand but they did me a good deal. can recommend Boostworx for sure.

[snip]

scan0001.jpg

Dayz special edition Stagea RS V Four,

89000kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

[snip]

Very nice work brendan!!

That would be rwkw i assume?

Glad you're happy with Boostworx. I know I certainly wont be going anywhere else from now on...

Just out of interest, at what revs does your car start boosting and roughly what revs does it reach full boost at?

With mine I can feel the turbo start boosting up at about 2500rpm but it doesn't really pull hard until around 3500rpm and I'd guess full boost (12psi for me) is between 3500-4500rpm somewhere and after that it drops back to 9psi by the time it reaches the limiter.

And although I only gained 10 extra awkw when I had it tuned by boostworx, the midrange improvement was very noticeable and the car felt faster and more responsive all round. :domokun:

Very nice work brendan!!

That would be rwkw i assume?

Glad you're happy with Boostworx. I know I certainly wont be going anywhere else from now on...

Just out of interest, at what revs does your car start boosting and roughly what revs does it reach full boost at?

With mine I can feel the turbo start boosting up at about 2500rpm but it doesn't really pull hard until around 3500rpm and I'd guess full boost (12psi for me) is between 3500-4500rpm somewhere and after that it drops back to 9psi by the time it reaches the limiter.

And although I only gained 10 extra awkw when I had it tuned by boostworx, the midrange improvement was very noticeable and the car felt faster and more responsive all round. :(

hey mate :sorcerer:

havent given it a good ol fashioned thrashing as yet, will report back once Ive had a look at whats going on.

boost comes on at 99kmsph in top gear

looks to be coming on pretty much as per the stock standard turbo - I believe that the SITC helps bring boost on a little bit quicker than normal. around 2300rpm?

its boosting to 14psi pretty quickly but then falls way back to 10psi due to the restrictive muffler

I agree with your last sentance too, very responsive thru the midrange and top end, feels very quick.

would be better with a good muffler tho. perhaps a resonator and cannon is the cheapest option, although I'll get prices for a local crowd to weld up a Magnaflow race 3inch inlet/outlet centre/centre. they are $81USD plus $75USD shipping on ebay, will see if a local shop can better that price.

overpowered - that dyno graph is insane.

care to share what happened with the engine ?

You are kidding! Mine did the same, it started to make exhaust leak noises a couple of weeks ago, which gradually got worse. So yesterday I thought I would tighten up the manifold nuts, they are the usual culprit. Been puting it off as the heat shielding is always a bitch to get off. With the heat shielding (finally) off I was amazed to see a cracked exhaust manifold, all the way around the log between #3 primary pipe and the turbine flange. I have never seen that happen before, and now I read the above.

I will post up some pictures tonight.

:bunny: cheers :D

kylies manifold tried a similar trick when i removed it a month or so ago..

made the leaking noise... discovered the first 3 studs were snapped off, the other 9 were either extremely tight, or extremely loose.

had a crack along the front and back between the 3rd runner and the flange, and then through the top and bottom of the turbine flange down the 4th runner too.

the whole manifold was also warped, so it wasnt sitting flat against the head. (made it fun for removal)

probably would have snapped if left for a bit longer...

looks like a common weakness in the manifolds? removed the one on my 33 a week after kylies, but it seemed perfect... *crosses fingers*

  • 3 weeks later...
kylies manifold tried a similar trick when i removed it a month or so ago..

made the leaking noise... discovered the first 3 studs were snapped off, the other 9 were either extremely tight, or extremely loose.

had a crack along the front and back between the 3rd runner and the flange, and then through the top and bottom of the turbine flange down the 4th runner too.

the whole manifold was also warped, so it wasnt sitting flat against the head. (made it fun for removal)

probably would have snapped if left for a bit longer...

looks like a common weakness in the manifolds? removed the one on my 33 a week after kylies, but it seemed perfect... *crosses fingers*

Dumb question here fellas, could this be due in part to increased flow characteristics = increased heat gradient/transfer through exhaust system causing faster rise in temp/thermal shock (expansion/contraction) in cast manifold but not dramatic downstream in less dense materials in dumps/catback system? Like, to avoid this problem do the full nine yards; exhaust/dumps/catback? Just wondering if it is an introduced problem is all. :sick:

  • 2 weeks later...

Well finally got the car tuned. I was thinking it would be around 160awkw and was pretty damn close 159.5awkw. They did have it higher but was starting to detonate so had to pull the timing back a little but its now advanced a couple more degrees in from 800 to 2000 (thanks to the ITC, had to explain what it was, spose there probably aren't too many shops that see these anymore :rolleyes: ). The SAFC wasn't leaned out too much in the low throttle really but the high throttle setting has a sh*t load taken out. The whole graph pretty much points way south (on the safc that is). This was on 10psi (for those that can't be bothered looking at the graphs) and the car feels much better now as I was having some pretty bad R&R issues which are still a little present but a lot better. So now the real test is fuel economy. I could have had it tuned more for economy but if I go on any big trips I will just get it tuned again with lower boost and get the mixtures leaned out more. If I can get 450km normal (my normal anyway) every day driving I'll be happy :unsure:

Oh yeah mods are:

3" turbo back exhaust (non split dump)

SAFC

SITC

Pod Filter

FMIC

Turbotech Boost Controller

So not much done really.

post-26232-1177478301.jpg post-26232-1177478441.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Well threw my car on the STI docklands dyno and it made 189kw at all four... not very happy with I would have like to have cracked the 200 mark but the dyno was reading low anyway as a new BMW M6 only put out 280kw or so. I think my next mod is def going to be a power FC or something of similar standing... my fuel air mix seems very rich, it blows a shitload of crap under load and throttle response is average as well.

Stasis - where did you get your car dynoed? and where do you get it tuned/worked on?

On a side note, how does the atessa system take to being on a dyno? as in how much power would it be putting to the front wheels? does is think there is slip so its sending alot of power?

Cheers peeps

Edited by MyStag260
  • 3 months later...

249awhp, 185awkw, approx

Series 2 Neo manual

Mods

Apexi ax53b70-p25 380ps

Tomie type B poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift

Apexi power FC

Blitz 525cc inj. z32 afm, FMIC, full exhaust, R34 GTR pump, Blitz Id-3 EBC, silicne inlet pipe, stock air filter.

Boost set a 15psi manual mod, and struggles to hold, drops to 12.5psi. tuner beleives it is the wastegate actuator not staying shut. It is adjustable and with a fair bit of pre tension set to approx 10psi.

AFR was around 11.7:1, Can I go leaner?

I would like to get boost to hold constantly at 17psi and get approx 220-230 awkw

Should I upgrade the actuator?

Am I expecting too much from the turbo?

It seems to have a pretty good power curve and does come on strong at 3500rpm

post-14923-1202947079_thumb.jpg

249awhp, 185awkw, approx

Series 2 Neo manual

Mods

Apexi ax53b70-p25 380ps

Tomie type B poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift

Apexi power FC

Blitz 525cc inj. z32 afm, FMIC, full exhaust, R34 GTR pump, Blitz Id-3 EBC, silicne inlet pipe, stock air filter.

Boost set a 15psi manual mod, and struggles to hold, drops to 12.5psi. tuner beleives it is the wastegate actuator not staying shut. It is adjustable and with a fair bit of pre tension set to approx 10psi.

AFR was around 11.7:1, Can I go leaner?

I would like to get boost to hold constantly at 17psi and get approx 220-230 awkw

Should I upgrade the actuator?

Am I expecting too much from the turbo?

It seems to have a pretty good power curve and does come on strong at 3500rpm

380 ps = ~270 kw, less around 70 kw for drivetrain and roller losses leaves you with ~200 4wkw.

My guess is the turbo is running out of airflow at 185 rwkw. Regardless, you won't be getting 220-230 rwkw out of that turbo.

Cheers

Gary

380 ps = ~270 kw, less around 70 kw for drivetrain and roller losses leaves you with ~200 4wkw.

My guess is the turbo is running out of airflow at 185 rwkw. Regardless, you won't be getting 220-230 rwkw out of that turbo.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks Gary, that was what I thought. I was hoping the apexi was a bit under rated like HKS, as some people are getting 250rwkw on R33 rb25's

Would running this on a neo and type B cams be any of the cause?

Turbo spec's

Model - AX53B70

Power (PS) - 380

BB - Y

Trim - 57

Comp Inducer (mm) - 53

Comp Exducer (mm) - 70

Trim - 82

Turbine Inducer (mm) - 53

Turbine Exducer (mm) - 48

Housing A/R - P25

W/G Type - Int

Flange Type - T3

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