Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

he said for his RS4S so its a manual mate.

from what i found looking im not sure if BC's make a coilover kit for the manual stagea. i have stagea specific HSD coilovers (very high spring rates) for my RS4S. if you cant find them for RS4-S(WGNC34) try looking for ones to suit 260RS autech as they share the same suspension.

user "Verms" on here has some TEIN coilovers to suit RS4S/260RS for sale if you PM him for a price. TEINs are good because of the ability to rebuild/service them.

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys you'll have to excuse this as a first post

I have some unknown lowering springs fitted to my Series one rs4 but the shocks are not up to the job , can anyone recommend a suitable shock , I was thinking KYB but having read this thread not so sure now , what is available and proven? I am looking for comfort and good damping

here is a pick to illustrate ride height btw I am in the UK

IMAG0165.jpg

Nice car! +1 for Bilsteins. I see some mods have been done already - clear indicators, R34 GTR rims? Have you got upgraded rear sway bar? One of the biggest value improvements available - check the group buy here v what you can source in the UK.

I would not highly reccomend KYB's my mate had some in his mazda 323 the old school rear wheel drive bad boy and they lasted less then a year b4 they seemd to get really bad and bottomed out allot.. i dunno personal experience or something but i will never buy that brand.. sorry to be bearer of bad news but cheap usually means cheap... and for suspension that means not long life span..

P.S. my M35 has nismo suspension in it well springs anyways is this a factory spek thing? anyone know if the struts would be nismo or just springs..

Edited by Nismo4Life

If Z33/V35 coilovers fit M35's, does it mean that Z33/V35 lowering springs will fit intoi M35 standard shocks?

They'll fit but it'll be no good; theyre not designed for the weight.

P.S. my M35 has nismo suspension in it well springs anyways is this a factory spek thing? anyone know if the struts would be nismo or just springs..

Sold as a set; youd likely have nismo struts :thumbsup:

  • 4 weeks later...

Yes they have definately been discontinued

They were available for a while under a different part number but sadly both are now finished.

I have an account with bilstein and bought the last three sets for stageas in the uk.

I have also been told there are no plans to reintroduce them at a later date.

  • 5 weeks later...

i just put some BC coilovers in my rs4 s1 and i was pretty dissapointed with the ride height, i wound the front ones down as low as possible and no pre-load on the spring and still have about 1.5" of clearence between the guard and tyre, anyone else have this problem?

i just put some BC coilovers in my rs4 s1 and i was pretty dissapointed with the ride height, i wound the front ones down as low as possible and no pre-load on the spring and still have about 1.5" of clearence between the guard and tyre, anyone else have this problem?

Silly question, but did they send you the right ones? On my M35 the BC's had to wound almost all the way in the other direction or else the wheel was up inside the guard. Definetly no issue with not enough low.

I remember "Run-it Hard" saying that they didn't go low enough on his Stagea; not sure what he did to correct it, because he certainly had it low in the end.

Might've gone shorter springs?

i just put some BC coilovers in my rs4 s1 and i was pretty dissapointed with the ride height, i wound the front ones down as low as possible and no pre-load on the spring and still have about 1.5" of clearence between the guard and tyre, anyone else have this problem?

I don't suppose you actually did wind the the lower section down as low as possible? You need to wind it up to make it shorter...

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

anyone else got or have seen a stagea with HKS hypermax III Sport coilovers??? i can find a stagea listing, but my newly imported RS4S has a set of these all round.

hey mate.. preety sure my 2000 rs4s has them all round too.. dont know exact model but they are hks and full adjustiable

Edited by shotpointblank

hey mate.. preety sure my 2000 rs4s has them all round too.. dont know exact model but they are hks and full adjustiable

are they gold?? i swear by hks suspension, HKS hypermaxx II are purple in colour- never seen them in a stagea, i have them in my R33, HKS hypermax III road coilovers are silver, HKS Hypermax III Sport are gold in colour and are for track/competition.

http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=3409

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...