Jump to content
SAU Community

  

345 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hmmm interesting... That'll definitely be the go for the R32 when I find one... Seeing that the only road time it'll be seeing is to and from the track and the odd cruise, comprehensive insurance is overkill.

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

shannons insure my r32 gtr, its on the super light use policy.... not more than 4000ks a year. only 800 notes though.

if i do more than 4000ks, it jumps up $300 to 8000ks. then a few more hundred if more than 8000 to unlimited ks.

perfect for me.

Im with Just cars, in Melbourne, R32 gtst, 22yo, lightly modded, rating 2 and i pay $1200 a year for an agreed value of $16000.

I am so glad i dont live in Sydney.

In Vic we have CTP like in NSW but do dont have a choice who you go with, its all included in the price of rego. (thats why rego is like $550 in here).

Guest Mashrock

who would be a good insurer to go with.

mind you i'm mainly going to be usiing the car for track racing and a bit of weekend driving.

and i also know that many insurance will not cover for the track..

i is also got a bucket load of mods,

i sent a quote off to just cars.

also i am 22..

i'd probably want the car insured for say 30k

32 gtr

Wouldnt drive my cars unless they were covered by full comp, the GTR cost me 3200PA and i was 18, the GTS with the V8 now costs me 1600PA, no i cant afford to insure both thats y only one is on the road at one time and while the other one is off the road it is chained to the garage floor until one of them sells.

Thats with just cars by the way, they said under normal circumstances they would not have touched an 18yo with a 33 vspec but because i had the gts since i was 16 and had not made a claim with them they would insure me.

I'm not sure if just cars will do an agreed value on older cars.  I really had to argue with them for my 97 model line.  From my experiences (fairly limited) just cars have been the best and the cheapest.

They did it on my 92 gtst... Famous couldnt match just cars in my case

  • 4 weeks later...

im 23yrs old and just car was about $1100 including all mods, but then again i have a 4-door r34 gtt which is classed as a family car, my previous NA JZA80 insurance was $1300. All rating one and comprehensive. My brother is a rating 3 or 4 and hes s15 costs him about $2000 from 'young and cool'.

Fully comp..... A car worth more than 10k or so then fully comp....

My 4x4 us a little shitty and worth about 20 bucks so i just got third party fire and theft on it as its $150 bucks a year. Never know might come back to the car after fishing and it may not be there so $5k coverage for 150bucks with a 600dollar excess on it. Thats a bargin to me. The skyline on the other hand is 1400 bucks with a 2400 excess but she is insured for 30k. I understand the high risk, i do drive very safe. But im more scared of it being stolen than anything else.

So i answered fully comp as the line is my daily car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...