Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

R33gtst

just jap fmic

unifilter pod and airbox

3 inch dump and cat back

turbo smart single stage boost controller

12psi

hks fuel cut defender

195.3rwkw

stock turbo,injectors and fuel pump

dyno graph to come :happy:

big cheers to the guys at UAS - awesome work :(

Hi All,

I have a R32 with RB25DET with the following mods:

R33GTR FMIC

Full 3 inch exhaust and hi flow cat

HKS 2535 turbo

Wolf 3D engine management system

Upgraded injectors

Pod

Upgraded Fuel Pump

Its first dyno was on 12psi for 230rwkw, with the fuel leaning out, so am replacing the fuel pump and winding up the boost to 17psi. I will post results later on in the week when the work is done and the final dyno is run.

Silva32

:sorcerer:

r33 GTST

Remapped Nerve Essential ECU

HKS 2530

Splitfire coils

4" Magic Cat apexi exhaust

HKS pod

FMIC

Stock injectors

Stock Reg (will be up grading)

Stock Pump (will be up grading)

18psi

post-14621-1159330188.jpg

Edited by race_snooze

R33 S1 Manual

Stock bottem end and head

stock turbo

stock plenum

stock injectors

stock ecu

500hp tomeii fuel pump

3" dump to a big body high flow BOS cat

trust pe II cat back

gtr intercooler with some dodgey piping

metal intake pipe

apexi pod

catch can

turbosmart dual stage boost controller set to 11psi

209.5rwkw

new mods:

Greddy Profec B Spec II set to 11.15psi

future mods:

centre muffler taken out

slide r33 highflow

550cc injectors or gtr injectors

apexi pfc

im hoping somewhere over 235rwkw.

anyone know of good injectors GTR size or over that are straight drop in on rb25det? thanks

Edited by LTHLRB

Car: R33 GTST Series 1.5

Mods:

Walbrow GSS342 pump

Adjustable fuel reg

FMIC from CRD

Flyen 3' dump and 3' exhaust all the way through

$22 boost controller (spiking like crazy)

HKS Pod and intake

Stock Internals

Stock Turbo

managed [email protected] psi

the controller was spiking bigtime and then dropping off so it looks like time for a new controller, something good. The car pulls ok, but then hits a down spot and then takes off again. Goign to talk to the tuner see what we can do.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=137100

Update on the RBZ. Went back on the dyno last night and did some more tuning and sprayed some nitrous to it. Laid down 595 rwhp (~444 kw) on 93 octane. Still internally stock motor.....stock headgasket, cams, and everything. AFR around 11.2:1

JT

Stock turbo, hi-flowed

Trust Type M intercooler and piping

Apexi Power FC

Apexi AVCR Boost Controller

Split engine and dump from Hi Tech Mufflers (3.5"), racing cat (5"), HKS Super Drager catback (3.5")

Bosch 044 fuel pump

Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator

Pod filter

Splitfire coil packs

238.5kw at the wheels at 14 pound

Tuned at CRD - they are the bomb!

R33 GTS-T

Hi-flow Turbo

Apexi PowerFc + HC

Trust Turbo Back Exhaust + Split Dump

Bleed Valve Boost Controller set to 10Psi

ARC Sidemount Intercooler

Pod Filter + Cold Air Box

Made 281.4rwhp

The intercooler became a restriction at 280 rwhp so it was very safely and economically tuned at that point. Will upgrade intercooler at a later date and wind some more timing + boost into it.

Special thanks to Paul & Michael who tuned my car at Elite Automotive in Archerfield. I highly recommend Elite they are very good at what they do and fantastic to deal with. So if you in the area and want a good tune done they tune various ecu's so give Paul a call :laugh:..

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask ill try get a photo of the dyno sheet up asap.

Edited by fEkuaR

Nissan R33 Series 1 GTS25T

3" Turbo back exhaust to twin 2.5" pipes

Apexi CAI

Bleed valve

JustJap FMIC

pulled 160rwkw on 4.5 - 5psi with huge misfiring problems. more boost + new sparks and a safc should solve this problem and hopefully be reaching ~ 200rwkw.

  • 3 weeks later...

1994 GTST S1

1st Setup

Stock everything except for

e-manage

040 Fuel Pump

Stock boost

HKS super dragger zorst

168.8rwkw

post-27030-1163286297.jpg

2nd Setup

Custom Turbo setup- small, 1-1.3bar at 3k - yipieee

Apexi Dump Pipe

VG30 AFM

Spitfire Coil Packs

730CFM Hi-Flow cat

Unifilter POD and cover

Emanage

Bleed valve

257.1 rwkw @1.1bar

post-27030-1163303825.jpg

3rd Setup

As second plus

AVCR

PowerFC

SARD 550cc injectors

Twin plate clutch

HKS Adj Cam gears

272rw KW

r33camgears.pdf

It's go live time. Thanks to the testers for giving the site a good shakedown over the last week.

Dyno Site

A few "rules" need to be followed:

1. Do not enter junk data. You can still view other people's graphs even if you don't have one of your own.

2. Do not sign up with crap details. If I see any dodgy logins created I will delete them, the car(s) and the dyno runs associated with those logins.

3. Do not forget your password. The password is encrypted in the database so I can't tell you what it is, and I haven't created myself a password reset page yet.

4. Report bugs to my email (zilla34 at gmail.com) with username and screen shots where possible.

5. Add suggestions for future enhancements in this thread.

Keep in mind, if this site gets abused I will pull it down.

Suggestions:

1. Sign up with the same username you have on SAU.

2. Add dyno type, location and shootout mode to dyno descriptions.

If there are any graphic designers who want to do some screen layout concepts send them to my email and I'll look at making it look pretty for version 2.0.

Have fun and play nice with it. smile.gif

Willo.

Here's the page for entering your dyno data to compare it to other users.

http://sau.garagespank.com/login.php

And here's the url for talking about it, things which could be improved, results, problems etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126563

Here's the page for entering your dyno data to compare it to other users.

http://sau.garagespank.com/login.php

And here's the url for talking about it, things which could be improved, results, problems etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126563

way cool man...will add some details later

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...