Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1999 R34 GTT - RB25det Neo

Auto - Stage 2 shift kit

3" turbo back exhaust

Hi-flow cat

Silicon intake pipe with apexi filter

Greddy FMIC

Greddy profec B spec II

Walbro 255lph fuel pump

Nistune Type 4 Board

Standard turbo, Injectors, AFM

259.4rwhp(~194rwkw) @ 12psi

RB25 NEO

Engine internals standard

GT3076R with ATP 0.78 T3 split rear housing

6boost split manifold

tial 44mm wastegate with 22psi spring (no boost controller)

3.5" exhaust

Greddy Intake manifold

Q45 TB

Z32 AFM

sard 800cc injectors

Bosch 023 pump

stock coils

V-power 8s gapped at 0.8mm

Nistune

399RWHP @ 6800rpm

More tuning left to do...

R34 GT-T

RB25DET Neo

Fujitsubo Turbo back exhaust

Apexi Pod Filter

i think stock boost 7-8psi, was a dyno day so dyno operator didnt get time to get boost reading.

Standard ecu, turbo, smic

BP Ultimate

167.1rwkw

Found out it only has a cat back exhaust and a stock dump pipe, hence the lowish power for the mods. Was on about 8.5psi.

Update!

Trust Turnflow Intercooler

Boost upped to 10psi via turbotech boost tee

Nistune tuned by Sam (Dr Drift)

190rwkw @ 10psi

post-29432-1265537736_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

97 S2 R33 gtst

Trust fmic

Tpiece set to 10psi

Jasma catback exhuast

Pod filter

Standard turbo

228 rwhp (was at last powercruise and since have heard dyno ran low numbers but i dont know for sure)

series 2 R33

stock engine

stock cams

Power FC

850cc sards

Z32 afm

Trust EBC

hybrid cooler

3 inch exhaust

GT3582 .8 internal gate

high mount ETM manifold

running E85 :blink:

gallery_34685_3163_69889.jpg

3.5 inch catback

couple more psi

ACL metal head gasket

gallery_34685_3163_66765.jpg

Rear housing size: 1.06

Wastegate size: Turbosmart 50mm

Boost Level: 22 psi

Gearbox: 3 speed C4 4000 stall transbrake

Diff Ratio/LSD: 4.11 LSD

1/4 mile time: n/a

Engine Internal Mods:Built RB25DET

Extra info: E85fuel

Power: 335rwkW on Unigroup dyno

30cpv7d.jpg

rb25det unopened

stock exhaust manifold

z32 afm

nisstune rb20 ecu

eboost

fmic

3inch turbo back no mid mufflers or cat.

740cc hiflow stock injectors

gt3076r .82

turbosmart ultragate 38mm external wastegate

300.7rwkw @15.8psi

full boost hits at 4200rpm

all in a r32 :D

1998 R34 GTT

RB25DET NEO

Stock Turbo

Stock Injectors

Stock Fuel Pump

Blitz Return-Flow FMIC

Greddy Profec II Boost controller on 11psi

K&N panel inside stock airbox

Xforce 3" Turbo back exhaust, with high flow cat

0.8 Gapped Plugs

NIStune type 4 daughterboard

214.6rwkw

Built RB25 stock head/cams

AFI tubular manifold (divided)

Divided 3076R 1.06 T4 housing

850cc injectors

freddy intake manifold

haltech ems

full 3 inch exhuast

twin tial mvs 38mm wastegates (reciculated)

20psi

400whp 376wtq

wanting more power seems like something is holder her back??

r32 rb25det s2

unopened

stock ecu

stock turbo

front mount

3 inch turbo back exhaust

hi/low boost controller

on low boost 7psi made 160.9kw atw afr was 10.5

hi boost 10psi made 185.9 kw atw afr was still abit rich could do with a bit more boost

dyno'd at dr drift :O

1989 r32 with rb25

Gt3582r .86 rear housing with anti surge drilled front housing

Forged pistons

shot peened rods

balanced and nitraded crack

stock cams

exhaust cam gear

head port matched to manifolds

custom plenum with 83mm sub zero throttle body

high mount ""ebay" manifold- modified

50mm wastegate

Microtech lt8s with update program and 40psi external MAP sensor

Mircotech X6 ignition module

6x bosch coils with top gun leads

highflow factory side feed injectors

walbro in tank fuel pump

BP ultimate 98

446hp on 18psi and 351kws or 471hp on 23psi.

upgrading injectors before 25psi run

Edited by nick81xd

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...