Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

With the hicas computer in the rear for the 32, if you un plug the little plug inot the ecu, this will eliminate the hicas ligt, but keep the big plug still connected, as this gives you your normal steering still. Ive found a cheap way to stop the hicas from working is to unplug the small plug, but putting a lock bar in is the more permanent procedure.

With the hicas computer in the rear for the 32, if you un plug the little plug inot the ecu, this will eliminate the hicas ligt, but keep the big plug still connected, as this gives you your normal steering still. Ive found a cheap way to stop the hicas from working is to unplug the small plug, but putting a lock bar in is the more permanent procedure.

Is it possible for the system to become 'floppy' if the computer is just disconnected? As in, the computer is no longer moving the bar so hard cornering might see the hicas move passively?

No, the rear rack has a spring which neutralises any movement if a system failure accours. This is the same setup as my mazda 4ws mx6 and also the honda preludes use the same system. So, in affect, to sending a false system failer to the computer if you pull the small plug out. Thats on a 32, dont know about the 33. So if you wanted to see what the difference between locked and moving was, this is a good option. I have just put mine back in last night for kicks, and wholy cow does the rear end move alot!

to geoff and anyone else, have you driven this lock bar on a r33 with a 'shimmed' diff and rock hard coilovers? because this is my setup atm without hicas lock bar and would like to know if anyone can give me some idea of how it would be like, particularly with regards to slow speeds. also, would the lock bar benefit my car even more with this additional mod? car is an r33 gtst.

Don't see how it can be anything other than an improvement. I've had them put in 600+hp 33 GTR and a Dutton rally GTR32 that should have won but for an off. I use it in my track R33 GTS25t. I've oly had positive feedback on the handling.

Thanks for the plug Sean. Cheers

Andy, I assume it will turn on the light but pull the dash and remove the globe. 30 mins.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks geoff for a great product. I had this for a few days now and decided to install it today. my gosh it was a hard task, those 2 bolts were a real pain to undo - at least 2 hours worth itself without a breaker bar and short socket. glad thats over. reinstall with lock bar was quite tedious cause tie rod ends was short on one side then the other - ?? Anywho, going to take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it goes. Twin plate, locked diff and lock bar - great combination for parking :):D

Glad you like it Duc. Yes you do need some heavy tools but they aren't all that expensive from supercheap.

With the offsets, do you think it might have been better around the other way? I'm thinking I might have got them mixed around at some stage so folks are putting them in the wrong way to match the slot location.

well, I didnt know which way it went in so hoped on here and looked at the pics and just copied it - that is single hole on the left and slotted hole on the right if that makes sense. For some reason, with my left tie rod it was a bit too long so I had to undue the bolt and screw the rod a tad shorter to enable the holes to line up. I initially thought that the drilled holes on the lock bar was a tad out of measurement but it wasnt, was my rod - so some ppl may want to look at this if they think their's isnt lining up properly.

As for the drive with the lock bar in, I think I may have a bit of camber at the front already dialled in cause I do not feel any heavy steering at low, high or any speed for that mattter.

Again, great product and great customer service.

well, I didnt know which way it went in so hoped on here and looked at the pics and just copied it - that is single hole on the left and slotted hole on the right if that makes sense. For some reason, with my left tie rod it was a bit too long so I had to undue the bolt and screw the rod a tad shorter to enable the holes to line up. I initially thought that the drilled holes on the lock bar was a tad out of measurement but it wasnt, was my rod - so some ppl may want to look at this if they think their's isnt lining up properly.

As for the drive with the lock bar in, I think I may have a bit of camber at the front already dialled in cause I do not feel any heavy steering at low, high or any speed for that mattter.

Again, great product and great customer service.

Dude if your steering is light then you dont have much feel for the road.Get some JIC camber arms(-5degs) for the front and some Tein castor rods dialled to max.Then you will have great turn in and feel with your lock bar in the back keeping things sideways.

hasnt had wheel alignment yet. but as i said, steering isnt heavy at slow speeds as many users on here have mentioned. drive just as though there wasnt a lock bar installed.

Drive as if there is a lock bar installed turn in hard and excelerate and countersteer,much fun.Personaly i turn in hard and clutch kick at the same time to get more angle and power through the turn resulting in a few large black snackeys.

Dude if your steering is light then you dont have much feel for the road.Get some JIC camber arms(-5degs) for the front and some Tein castor rods dialled to max.Then you will have great turn in and feel with your lock bar in the back keeping things sideways.

OR...don't waste money on Jap stuff and use the Whiteline caster and camber kits. Do you have any real idea what camber and caster actually work best on these cars? No don't answer, just go back to whatever ricer/dorifto tool site you came from.

Drive as if there is a lock bar installed turn in hard and excelerate and countersteer,much fun.Personaly i turn in hard and clutch kick at the same time to get more angle and power through the turn resulting in a few large black snackeys.

Let me guess, another half witted midnight drifter with bugger all real racing experience?

That type of driving is fine for drift days, but will get you kicked out of a proper track day and will hopefully have your car impounded if you do it on th streets.

Back to FF and NS sites for you!

OR...don't waste money on Jap stuff and use the Whiteline caster and camber kits. Do you have any real idea what camber and caster actually work best on these cars? No don't answer, just go back to whatever ricer/dorifto tool site you came from.

Let me guess, another half witted midnight drifter with bugger all real racing experience?

That type of driving is fine for drift days, but will get you kicked out of a proper track day and will hopefully have your car impounded if you do it on th streets.

Back to FF and NS sites for you!

Well dude I clocked a 72second lap around barbagallo's long track on street tyres first time out there with the skyline,whitch shocked a few people and i beleive it was because of my track experiance and suspension setup.Negative five degrees on front kept the tyre flat on the road through high speed corners,2 mm toe out on front and 2mm toe in on the rear,castor is set to 8 degrees.This set up I beleive is good for the car along with good tyres.

And to your coments about racing experiance,what would you know,come down to Barbas if your in WA and we'll see if you can beat me in my 2ltr rnd the track with your cusco gear and rb26

Not that quick then. I was usually 5-7 seconds a lap faster than Ant in my GTS25t with a blown shock absorber. Nothing against Ant, he's a damn fine bloke.

See here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=lap+times#

Anyway, someone with half a brain knows that -5 deg camber is too much for street tyres, unless you underinflated them and too much castor on any 32 will destroy the upper bushes so yours won't last long on 8 deg.

No Cusco stuff on the GTR or either of the GTS25ts.

Anyway son, this is about HICAS bar fitting, not how long until the end of school holidays.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...