Jump to content
SAU Community

HICAS removal bar fitting for R33


GTRgeoff

Recommended Posts

im about to chuck my lock bar in this weekend. i have done a lock on a 32 and it was locked on my old 33 as the hicas was faulty but i must admit i never new there was a computer in the boot that controlled the 4 wheel steer.

i knew that the hicas in r33 was electronic as opposed to the hydraulic set up in the r32 skylines but yer the computer is news to me.

i have recently pulled the hicas sensor off the steering collumn when i did a steering wheel change and only thing i can notice is the light come on when i turn hard if im dring over 80!

i guess i have 3 main questions ..

1. will removal of the disc sensor set-up interfere with my power steering???

2. will unplugging the electronic clips on the hicas interfere with my power steering?

3. will removing the ecu in the parcel shelf interfere with my power steering??

i want my steering to feel just the same as stock but with out the rear wheel steer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need a HICAS Bosskit for your steering wheel,

Leave the computer alone and it will be fine.

The only thing you remove is the bar itself and the bulb. Leave EVERYTHING else or you will have problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh really a hicas boss kit?? i just uses an off the shelf item for r33 that didnt allow for hicas. i unplugged and pulled the black disc set up off the steering collum. car still seems to be driving fine???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

what about removing the fuse?? where is the fuse located for the hicas? i read somewhere that its in the boot, but where in the boot? i have just put a lockbar in and it made so much difference to the handling of the car. i like i like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i wouldnt worry about the fuse. ive had my HICAS out for almost a year. never took the fuse out and its fine. its not like its plugged into anything so shouldnt matter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

i took my hicas ecu out years ago in R33 GTSt. i guess u could say the steering was slightly heavier but im also running 19" rims which weigh shitloads more than the stockers.

i also never had the hicas light come up on the dash when i removed the ecu

some ppl think its weird but it was basically unplug it all and things were normal.

ben...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Just tape them up and cable tie away nicely.. Or, if you CBF i think you can pull them up into the boot through the big ass grommet there.

Hi guys, i have recently bought a R33 with the HICAS motor being removed, and it's got a lock bar installed.

The steering feel is stiff when car is not moving, for e.g. when trying to do a reverse parking. When driving the car at higher speeds, its still stiffer than a stock R33 with the HICAS unit.

What I would like to know is, does the removal of the HICAS unit and the installing of a lock bar caused the power steering to be stiff ? I know the removal of the HICAS unit is to prevent the rear wheels from steering and the HICAS lock bar is obviously to lock the rear wheels into a locked position. But does this naturally mean the steering should be stiff ?

Or is there a problem with the power steering unit or pump ?

Is it possible to have the HICAS unit removed + installing the lock bar, BUT still retain the feeling of a power-assisted steering ?

I am totally not used to driving this car with the stiff steering, and would like to return to the original feeling of the normal power assisted steering. I asked the previous owner why the steering was so stiff, and he told me that its because the HICAS unit has been removed. Is that really the reason behind it?

Hope you guys can help out here as I am really new but I have searched through the forums on this topic but cant seem to find out the exact answers. Thanks guys !

Edited by Brabus
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so many variations with this hicas lol... i removed my hicas computer years ago when doing a boot install, the light never came on, the steering was light as usual i also got 19's with 245/265s on. recently i finally got around to fitting my lock bar. and again no issues at all.

Ben...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

what about the steering position sensor in the r33? located behind the steering wheel / boss kit. its the round disc with the tab that fits through the slot in hicas specific boss kits / standard wheel.

it was mentioned above that once removed, it had no bearing on power steering weight, etc.

can i get a confirmation or otherwise about removing this sensor?

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

hey, awesome write up...plan on installing the bar in the next week or so. Was just wondering with the wheel alignment, would you be able to do it yourself? maybe with some string? lol i know it sounds dodgy but might not have time to drive it to a w/a place for a few days...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Both of those things are on my to do but not quite in a position to do that just yet until I can at least get it running back to stock. Going to work on getting the exhaust manifold gasket and studs replaced first, an obvious need it now. Then I'll try out the new maf and see hownthat does. After that I'm thinking cas if I'm still having the same issues. Still need to run the fuel out and refuel I'll change the fuel filter tomorrow along with cleaning the iacv with carb cleaner. If all else fails I'm going to get a serial port and see if I can get some sort of data on what the ecu is seeing when the issue is happening but really hoping one of the methods above work out first. After I get a good base I'm going link but have to save for that so it'll be a while for that based on my tuners suggestions. Definitely need the exhaust leak fixed first though car has always fallen flat after about 4-4500 rpm since I've had it and suspecting that's the issue. Then I can move forward with the rest. 
    • My vote is rebuild s2 engine or maybe get a neo (but expect you may need to rebuild that too). Doing an engine conversion you would have to be a true tragic nowadays and actively be aware there's better/smarter options for value.
    • Or buy one someone built earlier! (realistically V8 mustangs or MKV supras are great). I see people nowadays putting ZF8's into MK4's, and people putting 370z gearboxes, diffs, axles into R and S chassis and it's like.... just get a 370z at that point and mildly boost the 3.7 instead of the 2L and away we go...
    • If you're going to go v8 or really any swap now with all the tax, I'd most likely just get rid of the car and start with something else. Unfortunately, I have a mate with a surplus of ls and Ferrari/Maserati v8's that's always tempting me FFS lol.
    • If you can get a clean, tested neo from Japan for $3500 these days, it's probably worth getting either way, hard not to be skeptical at that price. Otherwise probably rebuild the s2.
×
×
  • Create New...