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HICAS removal bar fitting for R33

GTRgeoff

By GTRgeoff,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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  • 5 months later...
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armbrusb
armbrusb

Hey guys - you are f**king up an otherwise good thread. Should you like to bicker about who knows what you might like to do it off line. This IS a DIY thread and I would suggest that most people visit

nickoracer
nickoracer

Hey can anyone tell me what the torque rating is on the two bolts that hold the hicas unit amd/or what torque should i use on the replacement locking bar. Sorry just like to do things properly.

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  • 2 weeks later...
B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted (edited)

everyone is going about removing the HICAS what is the main benefit of removing it maybe a noob question but ive read the 300ZX sites and some of the people on there like it and they have reached the 20yr old mark.

Edited by B-rice
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  • 3 weeks later...
enka Community Regular

enka

Posted
Posted

hi, am in the middle of removing the hicas unit behind the diff, how exactly do u " crackoff" the rod ends which connect to the unit. thanks

exactly my thoughts, how to do this??

have you done yours?

breaker bar with these kinda tool attached? (http://imgur.com/sUJ7i)

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  • 2 months later...
Ricky_Bobby Enthusiast

Ricky_Bobby

Posted
Posted

I hate to revive an old thread, but I will be fitting a HICAS lock bar to my S1 R33 GTST.

The instructions on page 1 seem a little outdated given the comments in the rest of the thread, alot of people are doing alot of different things about the power steering lines etc.

Has anybody done on a 33 recently, what did you do and were you happy with the outcome ?

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Ricky_Bobby Enthusiast

Ricky_Bobby

Posted
Posted

Attempted this last night with not alot of success. I couldn't "crack" the 4 sided rod out of the HICAS unit . The HICAS bar I brought still has the arms in it , now I know why !

It's going to need persuasion of the vice kind I reckon ! . So I thought seeing my bar had arms already , that I would just remove the HICAS system as one whole unit .

Well that didn't happen because one of the nuts was rusted shut , it started to round off which is when I stopped . Put my HICAS back in , cracked a beer and called it a day .

Thinks I might just get a workshop to put it in and wheel align at the same time .

It seems what should have been a simple job ended up being a pain in my arse .

Can anybody in Adelaide recommend a workshop that is happy to put a HICAS lock bar in with wheel alignment without robbing me ?

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  • 3 weeks later...
T4NK Experienced

T4NK

Posted
Posted

Well I got it done at a workshop, my HICAS light isnt on but my ABS light is ? Nek Minnit ?

A page or 2 back a guy had this issue, he unplugged a gray plug that he was not supposed to, have a look

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T4NK Experienced

T4NK

Posted
Posted

I just tried to remove mine and... i have a 3 and a half inch exhaust on my 34 GTR, so could not get the the right hand side, and could not crack off the arms -_- to a mechanic tomorrow to do it, dont have the tools i need to do it correctly fml

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  • 2 months later...
A Grave Digger Enthusiast

A Grave Digger

Posted
Posted

has anyone here ever had issues with the arms coming loose after they have installed the HICAS lock bar?

I had my wheels aligned after installing coilovers and the car didnt feel right, but i couldnt figure out what it was. then i was driving it the other day and the rear rod that connects to the lock bar came out of the lock bar :/

had a look underneath the car for the first time today since and noticed the other side was loose as well. has anyone had this issue? i did them up bloody tight when i first installed it.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

No. It might take a bit of load off the tie rod end when you're undoing it but it won't cause any dramas doing it jacked up.

However in saying that, most suspension components should be tightened up with the car sitting as close to normal ride height as possible (wheels/suspension carrying the load). It's more of an issue with rubber bushes as they will twist and bind up a bit if you fully tighten them before lowering the car onto the wheels. You should assemble the parts with the bolts loosely tightened then lower the car onto blocks under the wheels or put the jack stands under the rear arms so the suspension is bearing the load (this is done so you can still get under the car!) and then tighten everything up to the correct torque. Drop it down onto the ground and should be all good.

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