Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have 3 gtr`s atm ... stagea will outbrake them all including one with braided lines and fancy coloured pads

not sure if its just brembos but   disc/pads(genuine)and calipers are superior combination to any gtr i have driven

sk or any stagea owner  thinking about upgrade can drive mine and find out for themselves...

you should be surprised

We don't run ABS on race cars, far too dangerous. So the comparison I make is that the driver can lock the tyres up with either set of callipers fitted. That means the braking distance is purely relevant to the drivers ability to modulate the pedal (and avoid lock up) and the grip of the tyres. The braking ability of the standard 4 spot Nissan callipers exceeds the tyres grip, so I don't care what callipers I put on the car, it ain't gunna stop any better.

What I find happens quite often at driving schools is that people stop faster if the pedal is lighter (ie; they don't have to push so hard). But that is not a reflection of the true maximum braking ability of the car. ABS just complicates this as the callibration of the ABS controller and its programmed logic can make even good brake callipers work below their efficiency.

So disconnect the ABS, stick the same tyres on both, modulate for 20% lock up (supposedly the best level for max stopping power) and I'll bet there is diddly squat difference in the stopping distance. Allowing for vehicle mass of course.

This is of course not the case with the standard, single piston Stagea callipers, at the moment I couldn't lock the tyres up after about 5 minutes of hard driving. They are simply goooone. Plus the warped disk shake is most disturbing.

:D

Man I need to learn so much - dont know anything about brakes... can someone have a look at the stagea replacement brake parts available from this Jap supplier (link below) and tell me what I am looking at... calipers? rotors? pads? single piston? four piston? which set should i buy what am i getting if i buy them?? The only english i can make out is the words "6 pot" and "4 pot"

Link (brakes about 3/4 way down the page after exhausts):

http://s108.secure.ne.jp/~s108121/ssl/stag...les/stagea.html

:D

  • 2 weeks later...

Plus the warped disk shake is most disturbing.

:)

SK , which front DBA rotors will fit and can we get some 4pot calipers that provide the

same clearance etc as the std stagea ones, and fit under 16" wheels.

Just for street "work", I reckon decent pads and some brand new rotors will be fine. I'd like to get them both at the same time.

  • 1 month later...

My 5 cents.

My brake upgrade has just finished and although I didn't think the original ones weren't that bad my advice to you all is upgrade now if you are thinking of making any mods to your car.

I went the GTR33 brembo way but I think any 4 spots on the front and twins on the back are the way to go, with some decent pads.

My Stag is a series 2 with ABS and 17 inch Rays N1 rims.

Discs and calipers bolted straight on, with mods to the inner rotor/disc shield/cover using an angle grinder as I didn't want to take off the hubs as the 33 rotors were bigger diameter than standard.

Try and get the original R33 hoses with the calipers as it makes life a bit easier to install as my connections were the banjo fitting where the 33 were the screw in type, but the banjo fitting will bolt up if you file(fine) flat the surface they bolt to(take off all the paint) and shorten the banjo bolt by about 1/4 inch. Sound a bit rough but I had them checked by a brake shop who said it was OK and soon to put on braided lines anyway.

My braking is now awesome especially with the ABS and if it saves me once, it will pay for itself,(well nearly) in not having to pay excess on my insurance.

The master cylinder is fine in coping with the extra and bigger brake pistons.

I had a chance to compare the size of the m/cylinder with the one on a R34GT and visually the Stag one looked bigger but I didn't have a tape measure to be exact.

Remember my Stag is a series 2 so I don't know about series ones and although I used Brembo's the fittings should be the same as 4/2 spots off a R33.

I hope this can help someone and sorry no pics.

Gary

PS 16inch rims will fit on the back but not on the front.

  • 5 years later...

Digging up this old thread - can anyone confirm that R33GTR Brembos bolt straight up to the S1 Stagea? I have GTT brakes at the moment which are fine for the road but I want a little more sustained stopping power for the track but can't afford $2k plus brakes (can get some Brembos, front only, for under $1000).

  • 6 years later...

Have been reading throw this pages now, as far as i understand the rs4 can have a gtst (witch i alsow fiund out was same as 300zx z32) upgrade front and rear, but wil they bolt straigth on the original bolt holes for the original calipters? or wil i need an extension to make them fit?

16 hours ago, oxford1327 said:

Does the same apply for series 1&2?

What models are compatible with series 2 auto AWD? 

The only ones worth fitting are GTT or GTR. You may have to remove the olives or trim the rear backing plates in some cases and there are two diameters of bolts but that is easily fixed. All the info is in the thread. Use Google to search.

  • Like 1
On 09/02/2018 at 2:58 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

The only ones worth fitting are GTT or GTR. You may have to remove the olives or trim the rear backing plates in some cases and there are two diameters of bolts but that is easily fixed. All the info is in the thread. Use Google to search.

I've tried to search Google and am not finding many answers, I also trawled through over 70 pages of tangents and unrelated conversations  that vaguely resembles a discussion on braking applications and parts required etc on here and still learned 5/8ths of bugger all regarding the actual difference in the overall width of different calipers that are available, and also which model vehicles are directly compatible with the a series 2 stagea, all I can surmise is that anything GTR will be a close match other than bolt diameter, so short of purchasing every type of brake setup available for a trial and error based approach it's proven to be a frustrating exercise to find a caliper that'll work with the wheel that I have 

I replaced the stockers on my AWD Stagea with GTT brakes (a big improvement) but then went to 330mm D2s.  I was running Rays Volk TE37 at 17 x 9 and also ran some random 17 x 8.5in at the track and both sets cleared the D2s so If you are having so much trouble I suggest you get some other wheels (or some spacers).

I did get some 18s later off a Nissan GT coupe Sport Edition (see pic) and also a pic of my track wheels (don't know what they were - just called "M" s

Stagea 2014 M35 Wheels.jpg

Track rims (640x408).jpg

I've no doubt about being able to get other wheels to fit, however I am a stubborn and angry old man that is  currently having a toddler  tanty ... And I don't wanna get other wheels I want those ones!. ? ? as nobody else does wheels in that colour and style that I've seen before, so I want to get them to work, and as stated I am indignantly stubborn to the core so if need be I will over time and trial find a combination that works,but I would obviously prefer not to.... 

yep and at this point i have tried all of those combinations and to no avail....so the latest iteration is going to be the 355mm fronts and 330mm rears from a 370z with the Akebono calipers, and the only way to get those to fit still will be with a 15mm thick bolt on spacer on the fronts (rears clear no problem), with its own secondary stud set, at least that way they will become a semi-integral part of the axle and allow me to get the wheels fitted until i can source a compatible caliper and rotor combo that wont require the use of spacers and give me the desired offset etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...