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Post up the manual extract and the wiring diagram (seeing as we've got no idea what type of car we're talking about here) to help with decision making. (Also, I'm nowhere near home and my wiring diagrams and manuals). I wouldn't suggest you do what you mentioned above on such a vague description, for a start! Depends on whether the power is from the ECU or the ground is at the ECU. -
Hi all quick update, so i checked the wiring circuit on TPS / Boost sensor, everything checks out fine. So at this point im really leaning towards 2nd fried boost sensor due to bad ecu maybe? Is there a way or value to check for when ohm testing the boost sensor? Also is there a way to bypass the boost sensor? Thankyou -
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
This is why I can't afford a Porsche 911 or a new M3. Farken. Will hopefully provide me with a bit more braking capacity at SMSP. Going from a 324mm to a 354mm rotor will also help dissipate heaps of heat. Not mention, the rears will also be upgraded to balance the brake bias. Believe it or not, with just only front Brembos and the rear OEM Sumitomo, I can actually feel the brake bias towards the back, hence trail braking into turns I could feel the rear end being unsettled. Hopefully if my broscience serves me correctly, I should resolve the brake bias by upgrading both front and rear calipers. -
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