Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think when I got my boost guage installed the headlights on the left have stopped working.

The parking light works, but the headlight and the high beam have stopped.

Could this be a fuse or would it be a wiring thing?

I have changed the globe on the headlight and it's not that.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6167-headlights-gone-on-left/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

this exact thing happened on my skyline after i was playing around

left headlights went completely dead aside from parkers

tried home fix job but no luck

called out auto electrician and it was apparantly the headlight switch in the dash

50 bucks later and it was fixed

wish i figured it out myself but :D

haha

sounds like a common problem :D

what I have discovered so far is that it isnt the globe as I replaced them.

also ... the lights were working in the garage and then stopped working all of a sudden. Then I left the car off for a few minutes and started it up. Turned the lights on and they worked! Went for a drive and they stayed on the entire time :(

so it's obviously an intermittent problem = harder to solve i guess :(

lol...

checked all the fuses in the boot with a meter and they all cam up good..

took it to an auto-elec yesterday and he said to come back today. When he asked what type of car it was he mutteredd something like, "nissan...mutter mutter...bloody switches...mumblemumble..."

will update the thread this afternoon

Strange ! I'm experiencing exactly the same with my old R31 with the same: left headlight!

Replaced globe, replaced fuse - no luck. Highbeam is working fine. All rights are working fine. Should all work - tried checking for lose wiring not much luck. Worked the other week for a bit I am sure.

Seems to be some type of strange ground leakage somewhere that I just can't track down.

Really, really annoying, especially considering that it annoys me that other drivers get around with only one headlight (looks like motorbike from distance). Of course I could drive with high beams all the time but that could annoy a few people :(

Originally posted by predator666

Replaced globe, replaced fuse - no luck. Highbeam is working fine. All rights  are working fine. Should all work - tried checking for lose wiring not much luck. Worked the other week for a bit I am sure.

Same problem as me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...