Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys thanks for your help with my gearbox. I changed the oil and its 100%better not as much heat, no noise and smooth changes ( :

One thing that might help is that i sythened the oil in by running a pipe into the gearbox and poured the oil in the other side instead of using a pump to pump the oil in. I found this very easy

Once again thanks heaps guys ( :

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i changed my geaarbox oil on the weekend because it was crunching going into 4th at full load. put castrol vmx80, nulon addative and found about a litre of lightwieght redline oil so put that in there too.

didn't see a change staight away, but after about 200k's of driving the problem went away. now i can change into 4th at redline.

is it safe to mix oils???

Hi all.. I reckon this cold gearbox problem must be a skyline thing 'cause mine from 1st to 2nd on a cold morning is not very nice. As someone mentioned before, double clutching helps but after about 5-10mins driving around it's all sweet.

Not long ago I put Royal Purple max gear in both the gearbox and diff. It did improve my gearbox on the cold starts as it now takes less time to become smooth.. and when it is smooth it's much better than it used to be :(

Gizmo73 also used Royal Purple and he reckons it also improved his gearbox over the Redline Shockproof.

its bad to mix synthetic and mineral oils in your gearbox.

Ive been told that once you run synthetic, if you run mineral oil after, you will ruin the gear system. If you read up and do a search on it, you will understand. The synthetic oil beds into the gears, and then running mineral oil will eat away at the gears. Have a read of it, because im not 100% what it was exactly

hi guys my car produces alot of heat from under the gear stick. Do you think this is the gearbox or the exhast or sumthing? It gets quite hot after driving a while. Could it be that my trans oil is low? Any suggestions will help thank you

Mine gets hot but haven't noticed any mechanical problems well not so far anyway

its bad to mix synthetic and mineral oils in your gearbox.

Ive been told that once you run synthetic, if you run mineral oil after, you will ruin the gear system. If you read up and do a search on it, you will understand. The synthetic oil beds into the gears, and then running mineral oil will eat away at the gears. Have a read of it, because im not 100% what it was exactly

why would you use mineral???

use the synthetic stuff

if you mix 50/50 mineral and syththetic in your gearbox might not be good idea.

However if you drain all the oil out of the gearbox and refill it with either sythetic or mineral you should have no issues with oil mixing together

BUT STICK WITH SYTHETIC BETTER PROPERTIES AND LONGER LASTING

cheers

  • 8 months later...

Hey i dont know if i done it correct or not.......umm, i used the fill plug, which was on the passenger side of my car to drain the oil.....i then dropped the jack down, open the bonnet, took off the dip stick, and used a funnel to fill the trans fluid into my car (auto's have the dip stick).....is this correct???as i didnt see a drain + fill plug, only the fill plug on the bottom( i guess the fill/drain are the same in autos....as its there to just drain then?)

  • 4 months later...

Nope, definately didn't drop the oil (not that silly) just checked if I could loosen them both first, was only able to get the drain plug.

PT, yep, it's manual, but what's involved in pulling out the shifter? Just unscrew the 4 screws, lift the plate/cover then fill? (measuring the quantities of course)

I'm against filling through the shifter due to the extra difficulty in measuring the amount going in and the risk of getting that stinking crap in the interior. Get a breaker bar on to the filler plug, mine was tight as a... well it was very tight and a breaker bar was needed to get it off. I then used a $10 pump bottle from supercheap to get the oil in. I also did a write up of this process if you need further info.

Cheers

nissan reckon vmx-80, i hated the shit it was too thin

im using the thickest shit available @ repco in my rb30 box, kinda shit to drive when cold, but i used the nulon manual box treatment aswell

i fill thru the shifter, just use a funnel and measure it before you tip it in

Edited by Rednisr31

Not sure what the 33 box is like but on the 32 box the reversing switch is the same height as the fill plug. I couldn't get my fill plug undone so I took the reversing switch out and used that hole to fill it instead :D

ActionDan, beleive me, I've tried to get the bloody thing out but it just won't budge!!! Measuring the quantity of oil would be easy as would using a funnel to pour it into the shifter so it looks like it's the best bet for me at the moment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...