Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the market for some new rears *heaven knows why?*

Just like some feedback on what tyres you all have on and are you happy with their grippiness (if there is such a word)?

Been quoted ~$420ea for Dunlop Direzza's DZ101's which i'm told is the "best money can buy" and ~$340ea for Toyo TPG Trampio's in 255/40/17 size. Obviously a bit of range there so want to see what every one else is using.

Cheers!

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63650-what-tyres-are-you-running/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

potenza DAGG.... Yummmmmmm 255/40/17

have no idea how much they would cost plus they came from Japan, no Oz companies made by the looks of things..... but yeah a lot happy than my g-grid i used to have plus the old potenzas....

if ya see any floating around try and grab em.... well i like em anyway:-)

I got a set of Toyo Trampios for $1100 from tyrepower in port kennedy

2x 245x40x18

2x 265x35x18

Tyres are pretty good and service there from the boys are great. Im guessing something in 17inch would be a bit cheaper than that. My personal experience is that tyre places rip people off whereever they can. You get a quote for the exact same tyre down the road for $80 more.

Kuhmo Ecsta Supra 235/45R17's on the front

Kuhmo Ecsta 711 255/40R17's on the rear...

the Supra's are nice, lasted a fair while and grip nicely...

the 711's.... well.. they suck.

i washed my rims perfectly spotless last night, drove around a little bit last night (absolutely no wheel spin or anything) and you can see powdered rubber sitting in the spokes of my rim(rear rims only), they wear that quick its not funny...

going to try Nankang NS2's next i think, mate has them on his wrx and they handle nice

I used to run Maxis 265/35R18's on the rear

and Maxis 235/40R18's on the front. For a pretty unknown(?) and cheapish tyre they had wicked grip on both wet and dry road. Cost about $430ish for the 265's not sure on the 235's maybe $380ish. But with me only running about 250rwhp and you running what now 350rwhp might make a difference.

Z rated means they are high speed rated, over 160km/h so thats what you need on a tyre.

don't get GT Radial Champiro's hard as rocks and shit in th wet, but hey if you want burnout material they will go on for a while but i wish i never got them.

Falkens are always mentioned as a great all round tyre.

Sherriff,

I just put a pair of the Ventus 104's on the 32 a month ago.. pretty DAMN GOOD tyre for the price.

They are up there with S03's in the dry and are about 150$ cheaper per tyre so you can't go wrong.

I havent tried the 104's in the wet yet. S03's have been the best tyre ive used in both the wet and dry.

Shaun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...