Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car is in the shop at the moment and the guys are unable to get the ecu to communicate withe PC. Not 100% sure on the issue but will find out more tomorrow.

They are waiting on a reply from fc datalogit but from what I have read I dont think I should hold my breath.

How did you go with this?

I put my new one in today and the version 7 power fc wont communicate, but I just had to send a scan (FC-Edit did this automatically) in an email to the guys at fc-datalogit and am just awaiting a reply. But if you have answers before they get back to me it will be great so I can put my tune into the new Power FC

Can't edit so I will do another post.

FYI Paul, if you want to put it in the FAQ, for a version 7.00 Power FC for RB25DET (AKA the new release ones) you need FC-Edit Version 2.130k for the ECU to talk to FC Edit :)

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi,

Will you update the FAQ on apexi's release of new PFC's with d-jethro for RB25DET ECR33 ? The part number is 4E14BN32 and fits series 1&2. Finally gts-t owners can get rid of the AFM unit and still keep the NVCS system(since RB26DET pfc d-jethro conversions lost that feature).

  • 10 months later...

Hi,

Will you update the FAQ on apexi's release of new PFC's with d-jethro for RB25DET ECR33 ? The part number is 4E14BN32 and fits series 1&2. Finally gts-t owners can get rid of the AFM unit and still keep the NVCS system(since RB26DET pfc d-jethro conversions lost that feature).

hi sorry for the mega late reply. i can but i need someone who has this model in their car. the main things i am after is ETC, VERSION - SENSOR SW CHECK and also SETTING, AIRFLOW (or SENSOR)

some screen shots will help for the FAQ as these are the main content items to include. so if someone has this model working with photos i can put it up

  • 3 weeks later...

What are the reasons that a power fc would make the engine light flash.

Most common will be knock....

May also flash due to injectors maxing out etc etc

Is covered in full in the Apexi FAQ.... Many many topics on this.

Helo. Quick question. If I have a q45afm and power fc. How come my car runs a lot nicer when I select r33afm in settings,Apart from the lite popping at idle. When I select q45 it runs like shit, there's too much fuel everywhere idle and boost. The only plus side is it has a lot smoother idle although richer 11.0.

All this is the same if I load a previous owners tune or if I load a sample map or even if I data init.

in case this helps others,

Hey mate thanks so much for all the guides you provide they are invaluable. i am trying to figure out why the second hand pfc i have is getting stuck on the apexi splash screen.
the ecu says FC1 r33 inside the shell and PFC rb26 9811-0011 on the outside of the shell.
Does this ECU need the FCC NT hand controller?
the one i was sent is FCC3 010-00722
are there any other reasons it would freeze on the apexi logo if these are indeed compatible.
regards

yes you need either FCC NT or FCC4

if you goto nengun.com you can buy the EL hand controller brand new as it works on all PFC versions (it's FCC4)

FCC2/FCC3 are hard set for the newer PFC's

that is, PFCs with RB26XXXXXX as the serial are older style PFCS and PFCS with serial ECR33-XXXXXX (or BCNR33-XXXXX) are newer style PFCs

same functionality, same features, different firmware.

the PFCS that are RB26XXXXXX were sold seperately with hand controller where as PFCs with BCNR33-XXXXXX (for example) were sold as PFC and hand controller bundle

basically apexi made original PFCS to suit the engine then the "newer style" were sold to suit CHASSIS instead of engine code

so

PFC RB26-XXXXXXX (old, needs FCC NT or FCC4)

to

PFC BNR34-XXXXXXXX (new, needs FCC3 or FCC4)

  • 3 months later...

Hey Guys, Just switched to larger injectors.

Needed to go in and update the latency and cc's. I dont have a commander.

Friend dropped by with his Commander and Datalogit. Commander is universal.

We can not get either one of them to connect to my ecu.

Power to Pin 58, 12v.

Motor is an RB25 S2 in it.

Any ideas?


Car runs perfectly fine, just wont connect to either piece.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...